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what to buy with $100-$300???

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  • what to buy with $100-$300???

    After this paycheck, i am getting something for my car. so with 100-$300 what would you guys reccomend me getting?????????? underdrive pulleys?,strut tower brace, subframe connectors???? I am leaning toward somethign for my engine, but with this price range, i'm wondering what would be better?Thanks
    1994 Pontiac Trans Am A4 Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Longtubes,3" ORY,Dual 3" Cutouts,No Cat,!AIR,!EGR,K&N CAI,Flowmaster Exhaust,Mad Z28 Tune,Spohn Subframe Connectors,Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs,KYB Shocks,17x9.5 Chrome ZO6 Rims,5% Tint

  • #2
    A nice Spohn STB would make a huge difference in the overall feel of your car. You could pick one up and still have cash in your pocket.
    SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
    SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
    17K Miles

    2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
    Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth

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    • #3
      Subframe Connectors
      1997 Pontiac Firebird T/A WS6
      Black, stock

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      • #4
        Cold air intake, or used gears....

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        • #5
          You could do a cold air, but i agree that an STB or sub frame connectors would really strengthen the feel of your car. Anything that adds further rigidity like that will help.
          -Dan

          1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

          Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

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          • #6
            Me...I would buy Al 96 Ram Air T/A a really nice present. I hear he's just a really great guy
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #7
              That's scary, that's exactly what i was thinking!!! To buy Al 96 Ram Air T/A something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
              1994 Pontiac Trans Am A4 Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Longtubes,3" ORY,Dual 3" Cutouts,No Cat,!AIR,!EGR,K&N CAI,Flowmaster Exhaust,Mad Z28 Tune,Spohn Subframe Connectors,Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs,KYB Shocks,17x9.5 Chrome ZO6 Rims,5% Tint

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              • #8
                STB and manual fan switch. Not sure if the manual fan switch would apply to LT1s, but hey, it's a good investment.

                Christopher Teng

                1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                F-Body Dirty Dozen

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                • #9
                  Subframe Connectors, I just did mine and WOW is all I have to say


                  SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

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                  • #10
                    With the car lowered that much (Sportlines) you definitely need the LCA relocation brackets to restore the LCA geometry, and improve your traction. A set of Spohn LCA's and the relo brackets should produce an measureable improvement.

                    I didn't find the addition of a shock tower brace to be all that dramatic. The 4th Gens are a lot stiffer than the 3rd Gens in the front end, and the fact that they don't use a true strut type suspension like the 3rd Gens leaves the value of the STB open to debate.

                    I'd also avoid a set of used gears. The install kit and installation will set you back at least $300 plus the cost of the gears, and used gears just make the setup required to get silent operation a lot more difficult.

                    Underdrive pullies show little gain, because the water pump is not belt driven. Peak HP gain on at least on dyno test was only 0.7 HP.

                    One thought.... custom programming. That's a guaranteed 15HP gain, within your budget.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Injuneer
                      With the car lowered that much (Sportlines) you definitely need the LCA relocation brackets to restore the LCA geometry, and improve your traction. A set of Spohn LCA's and the relo brackets should produce an measureable improvement.

                      I didn't find the addition of a shock tower brace to be all that dramatic. The 4th Gens are a lot stiffer than the 3rd Gens in the front end, and the fact that they don't use a true strut type suspension like the 3rd Gens leaves the value of the STB open to debate.

                      I'd also avoid a set of used gears. The install kit and installation will set you back at least $300 plus the cost of the gears, and used gears just make the setup required to get silent operation a lot more difficult.

                      Underdrive pullies show little gain, because the water pump is not belt driven. Peak HP gain on at least on dyno test was only 0.7 HP.

                      One thought.... custom programming. That's a guaranteed 15HP gain, within your budget.


                      Im not looking to argue, but I just bought two sets of used 4.10 gears, both with low mileage. MOTIVE and YUKON, and paid Roughly $300 for both sets.... (I have 2 camaros.) The deals are out their, just look for them....

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                      • #12
                        I did not challenge you in any way on the cost of the gears. I didn't even mention a specific cost for the used gears. I've seen used 10-bolt 7.625" gears for $100 or less.

                        What I said was:

                        In addition to the used gears, you will need an install kit ($50-$150), and someone to install them (another $200-$300, unless you happen to be skilled in setting up gears, have a pinion depth gauge, etc). That will cost you about $300 in addition to the cost of the used gears, bringing the total to more than his $300 budget. I also gave my opinion of used gears, based on my experience, that they make an already difficult setup (for many installers - based on the number of faulty installs of new gears) even more difficult, because of the wear pattern from the previous install.
                        Fred

                        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                        • #13
                          yeah so it looks like some suspension mods.....can't do too much to the engine with only $300, but what Injuneer said about getting a custom tune.....i was thinking that, but should i just wait until i get some more things done to the engine, because if i get the tune now, then i will have to tune it again right???????? And what is an STB???
                          1994 Pontiac Trans Am A4 Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Longtubes,3" ORY,Dual 3" Cutouts,No Cat,!AIR,!EGR,K&N CAI,Flowmaster Exhaust,Mad Z28 Tune,Spohn Subframe Connectors,Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs,KYB Shocks,17x9.5 Chrome ZO6 Rims,5% Tint

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                          • #14
                            Strut Tower Brace.

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                            • #15
                              I have to agree with doing the LCA relocation brackets....especially with Sportlines. I had Sportlines at one point in time on my 97 WS6 and before I installed the Spohn relocation brackets, I had extreme traction issues. The relo brackets made a dramatic difference.

                              After that you should probably have enough left to get a custom tune, and like Fred mentioned, it would be worth an honest 15 crank HP.

                              Used gears are never a good idea. You have no idea how they were treated and if they were even installed correctly in the rear end they came from.

                              A shock (our cars don't have struts) tower brace usually doesn't show much improvement on the 4th gens. I barely noticed a change if any at all on my 97 WS6.

                              Sub frame connectors, on the other hand, are a very good bang for the buck mod that will realy tighten up the car.

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