Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Front upper and lower control arms

Collapse
X
Collapse
  • Page of 2
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 Next
  • #1

    Front upper and lower control arms

    I'm in Phase 3 of my suspension upgrades. Here's what's been done so far:

    1LE control arm bushings, 1LE front/rear springs, welded subframe connectors, STB, 35 mm front/ 21 mm rear Strano hollow swaybars, urethane endlinks , and various "reinforcement" to the rear.

    I'm about to put on SA Koni's on all four corners, but am considering replacing the front and rear bushings and ball joints while I'm in there.


    My question is - What are the benefits in replacing the front upper and lower control arms with aftermarket ones? Besides being a slight bit lighter, and offering increased camber settings, do they really provide any seat of the pants change? At nearly $700, I can think of other things that would probably do more...

    Obviously, my goals are toward cornering and not drag racing...
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
    Tags: None
  • #2
    I would keep the stockers. They dont break. I have heard of aftermarket ones breaking before. Becides, the only real advantage I see for you would be, like you said, the weight savings. I doubt shaving 50-60 lbs is worth $700
    No F-Body right now

    Comment

    • #3
      I have pondered the same thing. I think I am going to just replace the bushings with urathane ones and call it done.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

      Comment

      • #4
        The reason you would get tubular control arms is for a couple of reasons. A really good reason is that often a revised ball joint angle is engineered into the replacement arms that give better control over alignment, especially if you've lowered the car ANY amount..... Another reason would be for handling purposes! If you haven't lowered the car or you don't care about ultimate handling, then the stockers are fine.

        Comment

        • #5
          Update on the installation:

          I 'm half way through the latest round. The Koni's are on the rear. I used the "isolator delete" trick to lower the rear about a half inch.

          My take:

          WOW! At full soft, the rear feels tight! I never realized how much bobbing and dipping I was doing before. Over bumps, you feel a tight sensation, whereas before the rear end would dip then rise and cause the whole car to shudder.

          The front is still stock. I almost had the sensation of sea-sickness as I could visibly feel the front end of the car swaying now, since the rear was riding flat. I can't believe what a difference 2 shocks can make.

          Once the wheather clears up, I'll move on to the front.

          Stay tuned for more...
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

          Comment

          • #6
            Next up...LCA's and panhard rod.


            Decided to give J&M (Hotpart) a try. He uses a three piece poly end, which is suppossed to eliminate any chance of binding. And, with a lifetime warranty on the bushings, should be a great addition. Hope to have them on this weekend...


            Still haven't done the front though...not much free time.
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

            Comment

            • #7
              Al, I am going to do Konis too for my next mod. Are you using the single external adjust ones? That's what I may go with - the double adjust is the hot ticket, but just waaaay expensive.

              Comment

              • #8
                Yes...I used the single adjustable. Believe it or not, you can find the double adjustables for less than the single adjustables. Few people use the DA because of the complexity in adjusting them and also the lack of the lower spring perch on the front. With the SA, you can lower the front end of the car about a half inch by using the lower spring perch. No other mods to the springs or shocks are necessary.

                I thought about the Bilsteins, but after extensive research, I was able to get a Bilstein rep to "slip" and tell me the compression and rebound numbers. Apparently, Bilstein softened up the shocks more than last year's design, making them way too soft for our cars. They seemed to adopt SLP's settings. Anyhow, because of this, and the fact that Bilsteins are not warrantied for life like the Koni's, it was a simple choice.

                From my research, the too biggest changes we can make for for our cars are swaybars (I like Strano's te best) and shocks. The car feels better than new...
                Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                Comment

                • #9
                  Al, did Strano have the best deal on the shocks? He seems lower to me except when SLP was having a sale on them a while back.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Honestly...I would have used Strano except for the ridiculous deal I found on ebay. From Hotpart.com

                    Sorry Sam but money talks...
                    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Front out...

                      Well, had a few hours to spare on Sunday so I disassembled the front suspension. It was actually easier than anticipated. It took 20 minutes to finally get the T-50 Tork bolts out of the driver's shock...what a pain!

                      I planned on replacing everything (ball joints, bushings, tie rods, etc.) but amazingly, nothing is looking tired. The bushings look and feel as good as new (no dry-rot, cracking, deforming, etc.) and the ball joint feels smooth and tight. The only issue I found was the outer tie rod boot...it's ripped open. While I could replace the boot, it seems to make more sense to just replace both sides with new Moog greasable ones. With 11 years on them, I'm sure dirt and grit have taken their toll on the one with the ripped boot.

                      Anyway, I'm in the process of cleaning up the stock upper control arm and shock mount. Except for some surface rust, they're not bad. I decided to prime and paint them to help them last another 10 years. By then, who knows.

                      I'm hoping to reinstalll the shocks this weekend.

                      This week...time to put on the trailing arms (LCA) and panhard rod. Looking forward to finally putting her back on the road...before winter hits (LOL)
                      Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                      Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        WOW I'm surprised the upper shock bolt wasn't rusted to 7734 and back. Mine were a nightmare.
                        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                          WOW I'm surprised the upper shock bolt wasn't rusted to 7734 and back. Mine were a nightmare.
                          My driver's side came off fine after being soaked with WD40, passenger's side stripped out almost immediately so I had to use a saws-all to cut throught the shock shaft.

                          You did get lucky.
                          My DD
                          2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

                          My toy

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Well, after a couple of hours of struggling, I finally got the front shocks separated from the springs. What a poor design. The nut seizes to the shaft, and the whole assembply spins...ugh!

                            Anyway, after alot of debate, I've decided to slow down and back track. I removed the springs, shocks, and sway bar from the rear (yeah I know, I just put them on) so I can clean up and paint the axle. After having chunks of metal fall in my eyes from the severe amount of rust flaking off, I decided to treat it to some TLC


                            After scraping and brushing, I'm hitting it with Rustoleum heavy rust primer, then top coating it with black. I've used this product for 20 years on outdoor equipment and have been pleased. Since the car rarely sees rain anymore, this should stop rust in its tracks for good. I ordered new "dog bones" for the front shocks, as I tore up the old ones pretty good. I also got a set of new panhard bar bolts coming, so I now have an excuse to work on the rusty axle issue. Once my new tie rod ends show up, I can start reassembling the front again...maybe next week.

                            Back to work...
                            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Just a quick update...

                              The rear is now glossy black...looks really nice with the aluminum diff. cover!

                              Ordered new grade 10.9 bolts for the LCAs and panhard bar. Might get them in this weekend...
                              Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                              Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 Next
                              Working...
                              X