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  • Low Coolant Light

    It comes on if u get on it then when u stop and shut it off then back on it comes on and stays on for like 30mins but coolant is full anyone know why it would do this?
    1996 Firebird Formula

    | Magnaflow Catback | 17x9 Ws6 Rims | Ram Air Hood |

  • #2
    Are you sure the coolant is full and you have followed the proper procedure to bleed all the air out of the system?
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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    • #3
      Well me and my dad put new themastat in it because when i was parked it would get about 230 degree. so my dad thought it was themastat so we put new one in then after we put new themastat in we had to put some more coolant in to top it off then light been coming on but it not done it for week but it kept coming on for like 2 weeks then it stoped
      1996 Firebird Formula

      | Magnaflow Catback | 17x9 Ws6 Rims | Ram Air Hood |

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      • #4
        You must bleed the air out of the system after changing the thermostat. Here is how. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush

        BTW 230 is normal for the LT1 before the fans kick on.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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        • #5
          That probably the problem then thanks ^.^
          1996 Firebird Formula

          | Magnaflow Catback | 17x9 Ws6 Rims | Ram Air Hood |

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          • #6
            No need to delete your threads..... it adds to the database.

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            • #7
              Where are you checking the coolant level - in the radiator, or in the reservoir?
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                If it persists and you know the radiator is full, it's the old classic coolant level sensor corrosion problem. 2 fixes. Buy a new sensor, which is only like $20 or $25. It's in the top right of the radiator, near the cap. Otherwise, pull the current one out and clean it off with emery cloth or 400 grit sandpaper. The problem is corrosion on it, which makes it not read the ground and set off the light. If the corrosion is gone, it works correctly. Mine was on for probably a year or more off and on, new sensor, no light.
                "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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