Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hard Start help pls, new info. Fule Pressure ???s

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Hard Start help pls, new info. Fule Pressure ???s

    Problem: Car cranks for 4-7 seconds before firing. Sometimes sounds like it backfires in the manifold while doing so.

    New discovery: Cracking the throttle even the slightest (as little as you can with your foot) makes it start like brand new, hot or cold. I am assuming this is letting a little air past the slightly open throttle blades. Are there any passages in the TB that might be blocked? Other suggestions? Besides holding the gas a little when starting

    Fuel pressure checks went well yesterday and everything seems to be in spec. 32+ when key moved to on. Same with vacuum at idle. 42 when vacuum removed. Question is how quickly should the pressure bleed off after the car is shut down. Mine goes from 30+ to about 20 in the first 10-15 mintues. After that it goes down slower. What is the normal rate, if any?

    BTW replaced EGR yesterday. I didn't think it was a problem solver, but I knew it was frozen. Got it out and it sounds like it is full of sand and rocks.

    Thanks again!
    Sean
    1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

  • #2
    Yes there is. it's called the Idle Air Circuit (IAC). Here is a pic. http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/iac3.jpg They are pretty famous on all cars for getting fouled. Take it out and spray it and inside the throttle body with some carb cleaner.

    As a matter of fact, my brother-in-law called me and asked me to scan his 99 ranger for an SES light problem. He also said it would start in the morning but idel real low and bog down till it warmed up. The code showed a IAC failure. I took the IAC out, cleaned it and the TB, put it back in and got no more codes from it. The next day, I got an e-mail from him saying that morning was the first time in a month that his truck ceanked and ran good when it was cold.

    I had the same problem with my wife's Chrysler mini van. I cleaned it and no more code and it starts a whole lot better.

    A friend of mine is a mechanic at a Jeep dealership and he says he has to do this all the time there.

    enough examples?
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Jeff!

      I need to do the coolant bypass, just so I don't have to drain to work on the TB

      I'll prob go for a remove and disassemble and clean, as opposed to a quick clean on the car. Let you know the result later.

      Sean
      1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

      Comment


      • #4
        When you clean it, hold the pintle straight down to avoid the chemicals from possibly seeping into the electronics portion. It would be advisable to use 02 sensor safe TB cleaner.

        Comment

        Working...
        X