Tire size advice

[Injuneer]

Unfortunately, is not all in the alignment. With the deep ruts in asphalt surfaces, caused by the 18-wheelers, the side tread of a wide tire rides up and down one side of the groove or the other, causing a side-to-side motion. The problem occurs in both the front and the rear. Not sure how an alignment would handle that. A "loose" suspsension with worn parts will make the problem worse. Start with a thorough inspection of the front and rear suspension for worn parts. After you are satisfied the suspension is as tight as new, then have the alignment checked. Look around for recommendations for improved response, often NOT the same as factory alignment specs. But you're not done yet.

One of the keys to controlling it seems to be tire pressure. Run too low a pressure and the tire uses only the sides of the tread, making the problem worse. Get the tires to the proper inflation, so the tread is flat, or even slightly high in the middle. Not enough to cause excessive wear in the center of the tread, but enough to prevent the tire from riding only on the sides of the tread.

Many of us run much larger tires.... I run 275's in the front and 315's in the back.... and have figured out out to minimize (but not eliminate) the problem. I wouldn't go to a super-skinny tire and give up the handling and traction advantages, just because of the problem.

-Check for worn suspension
-Get a good alignment
-Adjust tire pressures for best results.

[andy625]

Thanks Injuneer. I did originally think I had a problem with the steering, however, the car has just passed the annual MoT (inspection) over here in the UK and passed with no problems. I specifically asked the inspector to check the steering too.

I did have the alignment checked a few thousand miles ago, but it wouldn't do any harm to have it done again. What tyre pressures would you recommend up front? I currently have them at about 28.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Here is what you need to know about tramlining http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=47 .

I have been running V or higher rated tires since 1984. They are very susceptible to tramlining because of the aggressiveness (sticky) of the tire. Also the cars alignment is critical to how much the car wants to tramlining. For the first time in 23 years I have had a car that did NOT tramlining with high performance tires. After my last alignment I believe that the tolerances the alignment shops use on cars is too loose. I had them set the toe on my car to right on zero. Not .02 or -.02. Zero. For the first time you can actually let go of the wheel and it will track straight even over bumps. Now when you hit a seam from where 2 lanes pavement meets you can tell it but it isn't violent like it used to be.

Also I have to disagree partially with what Injuneer said. Partially I said. If you run too high of a tire pressure it will tramlining more. A lot more. Run your tires up to 40 psi and try driving it. It may do it some with too low of a pressure too but I have found it isn't near as bad as running it too high. Anyway Fred is correct when he says you need to run the proper air pressure. My car came with 245/50X16 and it recommends 30 psi. That is what I run and I have no tramlining problems or tire wear problems. That is what I would recommend if your car doesn't have a tire presure sticker on it.

[Injuneer]

Try more pressure than 28psi. From my experience with the 275's the tramlining was reduced significantly above 32psi. I typically ran 32-36psi. I could tell when the front pressure was too low, simply from the increase in "wandering". You should also get less as the tires "round" the edges of the tread off from heavy cornering. I fully suspect that's why the Goodyear GS-C's had such a shallow tread on the sides when new.

For some real thrills, give a 500HP engine full throttle in 2nd gear at about 50MPH, and the 315's will have the rear end darting all over the road as they navigate the asphalt ruts.