Bought used Lt1, now check engine light, motor hesitation, misfire, etc...

[ConElite]

That statement doesn't hold water...I don't beat on my car. So no. You might have met guys that beat on their cars, but I don't. As stock car can be beat on and be on it's last leg. If anything, I'd buy a well maintained, modified car, with records than a stock on with nothing about it's history. You can see a well modded car and if the owner took care of it. Not trying to flame, but don't the guy down for buying an f-body that's been modded.

Your telling me that, a person, who mods their car for racing application, is not a lot more pron to being taken out to the races. Having it red-lines every once in a while. Something that is fixed up for hard racing. I dont believe someone is going to fix their car to have 500hp to just have as a daily driver and never race it.

You might be an exception to the rule but Its the truth.

Ummm, no. All the mods show is that the prev. owner is an enthusiast and likes the car. The quality of the parts, the quality of the install, the maintenance record and the condition of the car tell you whether it has been beat on or not. I've done way more mods than you and the last comment anyone has is "dude, your car is beat on." Check your train of thought.

If I redline the car everytime I drive out my driveway, yet change the oil and keep every spot on the car clean is not going to tell you I was Beating on it.


Enthusiast exactly. Someone that likes the speed. Are you telling me that If I get the most expensive Parts, The most expensive install and drive that car liek an idiot its going to hold up? Ah I dont think so. I think you guys are not seeing or wanting to see the reality.

Or it could just be that in So Cal everyone that has a modded car mods their car for a reason..


Sorry WhosYoDaddyKoo00

[Z Ya Later]

That's not even close to an accurate assessment. Just because he has headers doesn't mean they are racing parts. They are AFTERMARKET parts. Do some research on the difference between street parts and race parts, geez. Heck, I can count on one hand how many times my car has even hit 5k rpm, let alone passed it. So don't give me that "oh, he's modded the car, he beats on it" garbage. I highly doubt you would even say that you beat on your car just because its been modified. Geez man, think before you post.

[ConElite]

That's not even close to an accurate assessment. Just because he has headers doesn't mean they are racing parts. They are AFTERMARKET parts. Do some research on the difference between street parts and race parts, geez. Heck, I can count on one hand how many times my car has even hit 5k rpm, let alone passed it. So don't give me that "oh, he's modded the car, he beats on it" garbage. I highly doubt you would even say that you beat on your car just because its been modified. Geez man, think before you post.

I don't know why your getting offended by what I'm saying. Its the truth. I'm talking about the earlier generation. The majority (key work "majority" not all)
of people that are getting into F-bodys get them b/c they are fast and want to mess around with them. I sure as hell didn't get my car to have a great comfortable daily driver. I got it to replace my Slow Honda, and to be able to say that nothing can beat me on the road. ha ha ha. I think before I speak, don't assume b/c of my age.

p.s. The "majority" of people put headers, Intake And full exhaust b/c they want more HP to make their car go faster not to make it last an extra 10 years. Its the Strive for more power. If you can count the number of times your car hit 5k rpms, your an "exception" to the generalization that I am making.

[WhosYoDaddyKoo00]

Sorry to break up the pow wow, but I found out what was the problem. Solution is getting a new spark modular. Mechanic said it was gonna cost around $900.00 bucks for the part (before labor). He said that I could get it fixed there, or I could send it back to the dealer and have them deal with it.
Note: I bought it last friday.

Any suggestions?

[Z Ya Later]

I'm going to assume that he's referring to the Optispark (distributor). If this is the case, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them replace it, as this should be covered. If it isn't, I wouldn't buy an Opti off of that mechanic to save my life. $900 for an Opti is outrageous to say the least. Take it back to the dealer and have them cover it.

[WhosYoDaddyKoo00]

Thats what I have been hearing it be called. I kinda thought the Optispark was what the mechanic was talking about after searching through a few of these forums. I went on ebay and saw that the optispark was anywhere from $80-$500.00 dollars. Weird thing is, this mechanic does most of my work Anyway, he told me the same: to bring it back to the dealer, and have them replace it.

What he told me was wrong, from what they could tell, was these three codes (handwriting is kinda bad, but I think i have them right)
p0100
p0335f
p0336

Im pretty sure its crank, crank, and MAF

Also, they said that they checked the crank, and it was running at the voltage it needed to be ran at. Also, they couldnt tell if it was really even a part that needed to be replaced. They think its very possible that it is just a short in one of the wires. Also, the reason for the new code from the MAF coming up may be from the crank sensor not working.
I guess for now Ill just have to let the dealer know what I know and see what they do with it.

I hope they take care of what I just purchased from them less than a week ago

[Z Ya Later]

I do not believe the CkPS (crank pos. sensor) would trigger the MAF code, as P0100 is for insufficient signal activity (i.e. sensor might be dead). In any case, just take it to the dealer. They should cover it completely since the car hsan't been off the lot for even a week yet.

[WhosYoDaddyKoo00]

Sounds good. Im hoping everything turns out alright from there. Now that its going back to the dealer, it should take atleast until around monday to hear any kind of progress on the car. Should I post a new thread on the condition of the car, or continue with this one?

One more question I wanted to ask. I know its not really the time or the right thread to do this, but what kind of hp and tq gains do you see from my mods listed on the first page? This is pretty much a question for anyone to answer, I don't mind.

Also, are there any other mods that I should consider for future? Im not really into suspension, or internals. Intake? Ignition? Tires? Small shot of no2? Once I get this car running Im looking to do a little bit of gain myself.

[Christopherrr]

Exhuast alone should net you a gain of anywhere between 13-18. Also depends on if the headers are mids or long tubes. Any induction work?

If you're butt-o-meter is happy for the time being, I'd tear into doing suspension/tires/wheels/exterior work.

[WhosYoDaddyKoo00]

Pacesetter Longtubes. I was kinda hoping that the two working together(exhaust and headers) give more over all hp gains than they would just seperately. Does the fact that I have longtubes, or headers in general, change what kind of hp I would get from the exhaust?

No induction work. SLP looks really costly for the gains. Is it worth it?

Butt-o-meter? I guess I havent spent enough time here to understand...

[sneitzel]

Butt-o-meter = Measuring HP or gain in HP by the seat of your pants

ie. a change in HP great enough that you don't need a dyno to tell the difference. You can feel the difference.

[WhosYoDaddyKoo00]

Ahh, okay. Well, Im content with the horsepower, but I'm looking for a little more so I can beat this kids '00 E55 AMG and more importantly my friends stock ws6.

Anyone on the gains of the Pacesetter longtubes and exhaust?