Hey if the pressure plate and flywheel have heat spots on them that can cause a clutch to chatter like crazy. You didn't say that up front.
No, Sorry didnt clarify. When I dropped the Trans this weekend The OLD PP and Flywheel had heat spots. I got the flywheel resufaced and put new PP and Clutch. Even with all those heat spots that the first SPEC clutch had, It chattered so much less than The #2 that I installed this weekend.
The First SPEC clutch that I had in/removed this weekend was slipping after 1 month, which caused the heat spots im sure.
Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
That's a great price for all of that. My flywheel alone cost like $350.
Yeah thats what I was thinking. I think thats the route im going to go with. Either that or The CF Clutch Disk.
You didn't say you had the flywheel resurfaced either. How did they resurface the flywheel? If they ground it on a blanchard grinder that could be the cause of your problem. If they turned it it should be OK.
I tell you with all the unknowns here I think you should go ahead and get the kit for $435 and be done with it.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
You didn't say you had the flywheel resurfaced either. How did they resurface the flywheel? If they ground it on a blanchard grinder that could be the cause of your problem. If they turned it it should be OK.
I tell you with all the unknowns here I think you should go ahead and get the kit for $435 and be done with it.
His first post says he had it resurfaced.
Why did you replace the clutch in the first place? Your car isn't that high mileage if I remember right. What made you put the clutch in to begin with?
You didn't say you had the flywheel resurfaced either. How did they resurface the flywheel? If they ground it on a blanchard grinder that could be the cause of your problem. If they turned it it should be OK.
I tell you with all the unknowns here I think you should go ahead and get the kit for $435 and be done with it.
It was not lathe Cut. It was done on one of those ones where the FW stays stationary. I really dont think that would have that much of an effect on the Chatter. The grooves are so small its just about completely smooth and I took some fine Sand paper and ran it over the Flywheel just for the heck of it. I cleaner everything off with Carb Spray and put everything together. My father (35 years as a mechanic) said that the method of the FW being cut should not effect that and not be a cause for chatter. So I have no idea. Thats why the LS6 kit looks like the best deal right now and be done with it like you said Jeff.
It was not lathe Cut. It was done on one of those ones where the FW stays stationary. I really dont think that would have that much of an effect on the Chatter. The grooves are so small its just about completely smooth and I took some fine Sand paper and ran it over the Flywheel just for the heck of it. I cleaner everything off with Carb Spray and put everything together. My father (35 years as a mechanic) said that the method of the FW being cut should not effect that and not be a cause for chatter. So I have no idea. Thats why the LS6 kit looks like the best deal right now and be done with it like you said Jeff.
For some reason the method of resurfacing the flywheel makes a huge difference with the T56 trans. I don't really understand it but I have found several article online that talk about it.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
Why did you replace the clutch in the first place? Your car isn't that high mileage if I remember right. What made you put the clutch in to begin with?
I bought the car with 55k on the clock. Im sure it was the stock clutch. I went through the paper work and I didnt see a clutch replacement.
The Clutch began to slip in the torque curve. So I proceeded to change the clutch. Put in a SPEC S1,(did the drill mod) but didnt replace the SLave or Master. After about a month or 2 and after the 500 miles of the break in period, The clutch would begin to slip again. Proceeded to change the slave. It did help and didnt slip for another month or so. Then Once again began to slip.Went ahead and changed out the Master, and yet again continued to slip after about 2 weeks. This last week, The car slipped like crazy. It was slip in every gear but first and then finally first started to slip as well. It could be that the Slave was not disengaging completely. I dont know. What can cause the slave to not disengage comepletely? Air in the line? I Tried to bleed the Slave b4 I had the trans out. I was pushing the TO bearing byu hand while my brother pumped the clutch. What I noticed is that the Slave would go back about an inch but that last inch or so was real hard with the bleeder open. I bought a Brand new Slave Saterday b/c I snapped the Line off the one I had before.
For some reason the method of resurfacing the flywheel makes a huge difference with the T56 trans. I don't really understand it but I have found several article online that talk about it.
I've read the same thing. I've even read it's not a good idea to have a t56 FW resurfaced period. I did it w/out a problem.
Maybe your flywheel is no good anymore. A lot of places will resurface it w/out knowing about the problem they have.
Your problem just seems too weird dude. If it's the clutch I'll be kinda suprised.
When you put the new clutch kit in, I would go ahead and replace everything. FW, PP, clutch disc. That way you know it's all new and don't have to wonder if the FW you put in could be causing it.
Yeah I think Im going to do that. I was thinking for a second what if I just replace the Flywheel? But they are like $250+ for a stoke one, So I'd rathe rjust pay another 2 bills and get eeverything kew. Im pretty sure that the machine shop I took the FW to get resurfaced does not measure it for tolerences.
Did you get the aluminum pressure plate option? According to the website, it puts the pressure plate further away from the crank flange. Perhaps the throwout bearing is constantly riding on the fingers??
I think on this board, Raro is the only exception to that one.
There was a handful of people that hate SPEC and some that when to the extent of saying that the company should go out of business. I was reading this thread they have on CamaroZ28.com. There is 14 pages of the different clutches people run. I didnt see one single person complaining about the LS6 set-up so Im going to get that. Im Seriously scared that im going to Break some b/c the car shakes so bad. I have to let it bog down from a stop to be able to go without chatter. Its horrible. I doubt its going to go away after break in, and I fear it breaking something and causing some serious damage.
There was no way to get my car started without making it shake so bad people would turn and look. Up hill was forget it. Down hill you let it get rolling then dump the clutch to get past the chatter point. I have done a bunch of clutches in my life and I have never had something like this happen before.
What really ticked me off was SPEC wouldn't send me another clutch to put in so I could send them the old one back. Even if I gave them a credit card number so they could charge it if I didn't send it back. When I had a Koni break I gave them a credit card number (which they never charged), they sent me a new shock, I sent them the old one prepaid by Koni and I never lost the use of my car. Spec wouldn't do that. They wanted me to send them the old clutch back then let them inspect it to see if it was a problem with the manufacturing of it. If it was they would send me a new one then. The process could take 2-3 weeks all the time without the use of my car. What am I supposed to do go rent a car for 3 weeks. For the cost of that I could buy another clutch and pressure plate. That is why I will never by anything from SPEC again.
For all the people who love SPEC, good luck. You are not changing my mind. A defective part is one thing but bad customer service is another. If anybody is looking for shocks I highly recommend Koni for a good product and unbeatable customer service.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
Thanks Jeff. Yeah Im going to give them a call today. I do eactly that. I have the car roll just a little then release the clutch. I spent about an hour Bleeding the Hydrolics yesterday and the pedal is still on the ground. I know they wont return my money but its worth a shot. I should of listened to everyone when they said, "Cheap in price and quality!" All I can say it, you get what you pay for i guess.
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