I managed to verify my suspicions by finding the wiring diagram for the 1996 10-speaker system. (W54 or W55)
The amp DOES NOT power the front or rear speakers. It only powers the two subwoofers which are 3.2 ohms each.
The amp DOES receive the signal from the front (left and right) and rear (left and right) channels, but DOES NOT output anything to these speakers. The signal is merely used to supply the amp with a consistent signal, regardless of where the front/rear fader is set.
The front kick panel speakers are 1)4 ohm midrange, and 2)4 ohm tweeter. It looks like they are wired in parallel, thus providing a 2 ohm load per front channel to the H/U. I do see what appears to be a crossover/bass blocker circuit, which may or may not be adding a small resistance to the circuit, and increasing the load to a safer level.
The rear (hatch) speakers are rather odd in that there are two speakers mounted to a plate. They are 1)10 ohm midrange and 2)8 ohm tweeter. I'm fairly sure they are providing a 4.44 ohm load per rear channel, as the alternative, 18 ohm doesn't make much sense.
Question: Do most people remove the tweeter in the front or leave it in the circuit? By removing it, and using only the midrange/woofer, which is rated at 4 ohms, the front channel will provide a much safer 4 ohm load instead of a 2 ohm load, which may burn out the H/U internal amplification. What do you think?
The amp DOES NOT power the front or rear speakers. It only powers the two subwoofers which are 3.2 ohms each.
The amp DOES receive the signal from the front (left and right) and rear (left and right) channels, but DOES NOT output anything to these speakers. The signal is merely used to supply the amp with a consistent signal, regardless of where the front/rear fader is set.
The front kick panel speakers are 1)4 ohm midrange, and 2)4 ohm tweeter. It looks like they are wired in parallel, thus providing a 2 ohm load per front channel to the H/U. I do see what appears to be a crossover/bass blocker circuit, which may or may not be adding a small resistance to the circuit, and increasing the load to a safer level.
The rear (hatch) speakers are rather odd in that there are two speakers mounted to a plate. They are 1)10 ohm midrange and 2)8 ohm tweeter. I'm fairly sure they are providing a 4.44 ohm load per rear channel, as the alternative, 18 ohm doesn't make much sense.
Question: Do most people remove the tweeter in the front or leave it in the circuit? By removing it, and using only the midrange/woofer, which is rated at 4 ohms, the front channel will provide a much safer 4 ohm load instead of a 2 ohm load, which may burn out the H/U internal amplification. What do you think?
The difference is amazing...and this with only a new H/U. The new Polk speakers are going in later.
Were you able to retain the RAP when you wired up your new head unit. I'm pretty sure I have everything else figured out with the exception of a one wire. I have 16 wires (1994 Formula w 10 speaker system) and everything I look at is only showing 14. I know the medium blue wire (3rd from left top of the harness) is for the steering wheel controls, but what is the one next to it? Is that for the RAP???
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