My tranny is grinding

[Nightrage]

When I put it in 2nd, 3rd or 4th, my car makes a grinding noise as I engage the clutch pedal. The clutch engages right at the top so I usually only push it down 2 or 3 inches from it's resting point. If I push it down any further than that though, and sometimes even when I only press down on it, it grinds. This problems comes and goes though. Some days it does it and some days it doesn't. What could it be?

Also, I've been shifting without the clutch a lot lately. It goes into gear nice and smooth without any grinding, if that helps at all. Is it bad to do this?

[97LT1Z28]

Grinding noise could be the throwout bearing. I think you should use the clutch. Shifting without the clutch could damage the syncros or the gears. My theory is......it's easier and cheaper to replace a worn clutch than to replace a bad transmission.....

[Nightrage]

Grinding noise could be the throwout bearing. I think you should use the clutch. Shifting without the clutch could damage the syncros or the gears. My theory is......it's easier and cheaper to replace a worn clutch than to replace a bad transmission.....

Really? The clutch feels fine. Engages smooth every time and never seems to slip. What should I replace it with? I've always wanted a light weight set up.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Grinding while sifting means one of two things.
1. The clutch is not letting all the way go. Releasing towards the top usually means the clutch disc is worn out. With a hydraulic clutch that is a little tricky. It could mean the slave has bottom out due to the clutch being worn out. If the clutch fluid is low that is a good indication that the disc is worn out.
2. The synchros are warn out. The synchros are little disc with what looks like a clutch material on the inside in a cone shape. When you shift it engages the next gear and slows the gear to match the speed of the shaft. When the clutch material is warn all the way through it will not slow the shaft enough and make the grinding noise. However they usually do not go out all at the same time.

If you put the car in neutral and push the clutch in and it makes noise that is usually the throwout bearing.

If you let the clutch out and it picks up a vibration it is the pilot bearing.

[Nightrage]

The clutch has released right at the top since day 1 for me. Also, both the slave and master cylinder were recently replaced, so it can't be that. Tonight, it didn't grind at all. It was doing it on my way home from work, then stopped for the rest of the day. It only does it a few days out of the month. Similar situation too where it doesn't do it all day, grinds for one trip, then stops again. Clutch grabs beautifully and it shifts smoother than it ever has. It's the butter smooth shifting I've always looked for. I can actually shift it comfortably and easily into gear with my index finger alone. Based on what you guys are giving me though, it's probably the throwout bearing.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

What fluid are you running?

[Nightrage]

Ugh, nevermind. You guys are definitely right. The clutch needs to be replaced. I got on it a little today and I was running at over 4500RPM at 30MPH.

What kind of clutch should I go with? I plan on replacing everything that goes with a performance part. SHould I go with Spec? Ram? No clue what to go with. All I've heard is that Centerforce clutches don't last very long. I'm going to hold off on the light weight flywheel for now as money is pretty tight.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Do a search for SPEC on here. I wouldn't recomend a SPEC to Osama Bin Laden.

[Trash man]

go with a ram, or DF from centerforce, my buddy got 80K on his DF so far

[Nightrage]

Alright, Ram sounds good. Which one should I go with? On their site they advertise for different applications. I guess I should go for the one intended for a car with bolt ons, right? Eventually I'll be doing some bolt ons. Should I go stronger than that? Also, what else should I get? Will the clutch come with everything I need to fix this problem?

[bollars]

Borg Warner worked pretty well for me.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I had a Ram in my old Mustang and had a boat load of miles on it. It was a good clutch/pressure plate combo. I remember when they first came cut and they were the hot ticket. It seams like every 10 years a new brand comes out and they are the hot ticket for a while. Ram was. Centerforce was. Then SPEC.

I think the LT1 clutches usually come with a throw out bearing because it is a pull type but if they don't make sure you buy one and install it when you replace the clutch and pressure plate. The pilot bearing usually last forever. Just regrease it when you drop the tranny. Use a high tach high temp grease. NAPA sells it. Just ask Mike Waltrip to get the dog to go get it.

If the rear main seal is leaking you can speedy sleeve it and put a new seal on it now while you have the trans out.

If you don't have any chatter now I would NOT recommend resurfacing the flywheel.

Here is your tip of the day. When you are putting it back together save the shifter installation for last. It's much easier to fill the trans with fluid from inside the car through the hole that mounts the transmission rather than with a hand pump from below. Just pull the plug in the middle of the case, put a pan under it and pour until the fluid comes out the hole.

Tip #2, take the oil pressure sending unit out before you drop the trans or you might break it when you lower the rear of the trans down to unbolt it from the bell housing. I broke mine. You will need a special socket for it available at your local parts store. It's an extra deep well socket made specifically for GM oil pressure sending units. You can use a 6 inch extension and a socket wrench and get to it from above. You can see a picture of it on Shoebox's website.

[97LT1Z28]

Also, if the countershaft is worn out or damaged, it will grind too. If that's the case, the transmission will need rebuilding or replaced. Hopefully, that's not it........

[Nightrage]

Also, if the countershaft is worn out or damaged, it will grind too. If that's the case, the transmission will need rebuilding or replaced. Hopefully, that's not it........

I don't think so. If I get on it, my car does 30MPH at 4500+RPM in 1st, plus downshifting doesn't slow the car down at all really. Now that I've been thinking about it, I think my clutch has been going for a long time now. I had this same grinding well over a year ago, but thought nothing of it because it went away so quickly. However, it explains why my car pulled fine on the dyno, but feels sluggish when I get on it. I never really thought too much about it because I drive like an old lady. I guess I drive slowly enough that my clutch can grab with whatever meat is left on it.

Thanks a million guys. My HDX clutch from Ram is on its way as we speak. I hope it can hold out until next Saturday

[Nightrage]

My clutch arrived. The disc is organic and doesn't quite feel the way I expected it to. Feels like I could crack it with my hands. Well, the manufacturer claims it's good for up to 450 horsepower. Any idea what kind of life or pedal feel I'll get from this thing?