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  • Clutch/Tranny Problem

    Hey guys,

    I just had my T56 rebuilt and just got it back in this weekend with a replacement clutch and pressure plate. Everything seemed to be working great, but now, every once in a while it grinds a little bit going into gear (I have only had this happen with 2nd and 4th for some reason). I was starting to think that it was my mistake and that I didn't disengage the clutch all the way, but I started really making sure the clutch pedal was to the floor before I shifted and it still is grinding every once in awhile. I'm guessing that my clutch isn't disengaging all the way? I don't know if its a coincidence, but it seems like it mostly happens when I first start driving the car after it sits for a while. I'm so frustrated because I thought I had my car back for good, but now I feel like i'm ruining my brand new transmission! Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you!
    1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
    Mods:
    "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
    Pro 5.0 Shifter
    Crane 1.5rrs
    Comp high tech pushrods
    Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
    SLP Loudmouth II
    SLP Cold air intake
    PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
    UMI adjustable panhard
    UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

  • #2
    -taking a shot in the dark-

    could it be a clutch fluid bleeding issue?
    -Ryan-


    1997 Pontiac Firerbird Formula LT1/T56
    2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, 6-spd

    Comment


    • #3
      What fluid are you using? I am starting to think that synthetic fluid for a manual transmission is not a good idea. I keep hearing too many complaints about grinding gear with it. If you think about it, it makes sense. Synthetic fluid reduces the friction compared to conventional fluid. Synchronizers require friction for them to work. If you reduce the friction you reduce the effectiveness of the synchronizers.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

      Comment


      • #4
        I didn't think it would be a bleeding issue because I never disconnected the master cylinder/slave cylinder line. Before doing the job I didn't have this problem. I never replaced my slave cylinder, but am starting to think I should have...

        Jeff, I am using an oil made by the company I got my transmission rebuilt by (Rockland Standard Gear). It is specially made for the T-56 and I can't imagine it would be giving me this problem... If anyone has heard of the company, I am using their "Tranzilla" fluid.

        I drove the car this morning and it was grinding going into gear when I first started driving it (it was pretty cold out). It seems like as soon as the car warms up, the problem disappears and it doesn't grind. I guess i'm going to stop driving it until I get the problem straightened out, because I can't afford to ruin my transmission... Thank you very much for the help so far guys!
        1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
        Mods:
        "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
        Pro 5.0 Shifter
        Crane 1.5rrs
        Comp high tech pushrods
        Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
        SLP Loudmouth II
        SLP Cold air intake
        PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
        UMI adjustable panhard
        UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

        Comment


        • #5
          Well when a fluid gets colder it doesn't flow as well. I'm going to say it hs something to do with the fluid. I don't think it is a clutch problem or it would do it all the time.

          http://www.rsgear.com/lubricants.asp
          According to the chart they use RSG-400+ fluid in the T56. I can't find anything about it.

          http://www.rsgear.com/articles/2000_08.pdf
          Here they say to use ATF only.

          They have a lot of stuff in the technical article.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            I called up the transmission shop to see if they had any suggestions and he keeps telling me that it is "improper clutch release". I questioned how this was possible considering that if i'm sitting still, I can put it into any gear without it grinding, but he claimed that the pressure plate gives more pressure on the clutch when it warms up (does this make any sense?). He said I can change the fluid to ATF to see if it fixes the problem, but he also said that I have to eventually add his fluid in because of the carbon fiber syncro rings he put in (once again, does this make any sense?)

            When I put it back together, I did not buy a new flywheel, but got mine resurfaced instead (it was in good shape to begin with). He claims that I should have absolutely not done this and he has never heard of a T56 working with a resurfaced flywheel. Is this true?

            I'm sooo frustrated right now...What do you guys think? I'm planning on changing to ATF tomorrow to see if it fixes the problem. It really sounds like the fluid to me considering that after 3 minutes of driving it, it shifts fine. Thanks for the help!
            1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
            Mods:
            "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
            Pro 5.0 Shifter
            Crane 1.5rrs
            Comp high tech pushrods
            Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
            SLP Loudmouth II
            SLP Cold air intake
            PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
            UMI adjustable panhard
            UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by SeanC
              When I put it back together, I did not buy a new flywheel, but got mine resurfaced instead (it was in good shape to begin with). He claims that I should have absolutely not done this and he has never heard of a T56 working with a resurfaced flywheel. Is this true?
              It depends on how they resurfaced it. If they ground it on a blanchard grinder (circular marks overlapping each other) that can make it chatter really badly. If they turned it on a lathe (concentric rings from the center out) it should be OK.

              But that isn't going to make a difference for your symptoms.
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SeanC
                I'm sooo frustrated right now...What do you guys think? I'm planning on changing to ATF tomorrow to see if it fixes the problem. It really sounds like the fluid to me considering that after 3 minutes of driving it, it shifts fine. Thanks for the help!
                At this point I would do the following.
                1. change the fluid to what GM recommends which is Dextron 3 ATF.
                If that doesn't fix it,
                2. Replace the clutch/slave cylinder. I think the whole thing (which is inseparable on a LT1) runs about $125.
                If that doesn't fix it call them and ask them what to do.
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                Comment

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