i just upgraded to granetelli wires, should i have put that oem heat shield on the boots, LS 1, KOOKS HDRS W 1700 degree coating
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depends.
do you have aftermarket headers?
Do you have lessened clearance to spark boots?
What is the temperature range for the wire silicone?
Its probably not 100% necessary but it won't hurt.-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
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He has "KOOKS HDRS W 1700 degree coating".
I wouldn't bother using the metal heat shields. Most premium wires have high temperature boots that will stand up to header heat. The fact you have your headers cera-metallic coated reduces that heat level a bit. I don't know what the Granatelli wires look like... they aren't very popular. I run a set of MSD 8.5mm SuperConductor wires, and do not use the metal boots. Wires have been intact for 8 years now. My wire routing is completely under the headers, not over the top.
If you have a close fit, consider using the Taylor woven fiberglass "Fire Sleeves". I used them when I squeezed 10.4mm Taylor 409's under a set of shorty headers on my LT1.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerHe has "KOOKS HDRS W 1700 degree coating".
I wouldn't bother using the metal heat shields. Most premium wires have high temperature boots that will stand up to header heat. The fact you have your headers cera-metallic coated reduces that heat level a bit. I don't know what the Granatelli wires look like... they aren't very popular. I run a set of MSD 8.5mm SuperConductor wires, and do not use the metal boots. Wires have been intact for 8 years now. My wire routing is completely under the headers, not over the top.
If you have a close fit, consider using the Taylor woven fiberglass "Fire Sleeves". I used them when I squeezed 10.4mm Taylor 409's under a set of shorty headers on my LT1.
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Originally posted by 99Firebird3800A friend of mine tried that once when he ran the wires over the top on his old LT1. It didn't work out so well though, because he burnt the wires off 3 cylinders and was misfiring hard on the other 5 - those 'fire sleeves' didn't do anything for him. It was probably just the fact that he ran 'em over the top and tried to wire-tie them in place that caused the issue.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
Comment
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Originally posted by 99Firebird3800A friend of mine tried that once when he ran the wires over the top on his old LT1. It didn't work out so well though, because he burnt the wires off 3 cylinders and was misfiring hard on the other 5 - those 'fire sleeves' didn't do anything for him. It was probably just the fact that he ran 'em over the top and tried to wire-tie them in place that caused the issue.
Over the top and through the headers, never had a single problem without any protection whatsoever. The guy before me did, but he was a tool.
A good Mylar and fiberglass composite sleeve can save a whole lot of damage from a plug wire.-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
Comment
-
im ok without the shields,these headers are great,the only part of the boot near some of the pipie is the top of the boot which wouldnt be covered by the shield anyway,the wires are ok, i had to repair one, i ripped the end out of it, i just replaced the plugs and put the reccomend gap .040, my car seems to run better this way, i was at .055 and it didnt like it2002 Firehawk, LS 7 Flyw/clutch,
Kooks Hdrs/Y high flow cats, SLP Ldmth 1 catback,
Spohn solid motor mounts/lowr panhard/tunnel brace
BMR Billet control arms/upper panhard/tourque arm/trans crossmember
Eibach springs/sway bars
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