Replacing fuel pump

[SeanC]

Hey guys,

I'm about to head back home from school and it is time to replace my fuel pump. My fuel system leaks pressure immediately after turning the key off, and I have already replaced my FPR (which was also leaking). It seems like the system leaks too quickly to be a leaky injector. I'm going to be doing the trap door method, but am extremely concern about cutting right near the gas tank/fuel lines. How close are the fuel lines to the floor, and how dangerous is cutting in this area?

Also, is this the correct pump to order? I've looked through the board and it seems like this is the best choice. Any suggestions please let me know!

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...PA-003&eq=&Tp=

Thank you!

[Joe 1320]

http://www.f-body.com/forum/showpost...66&postcount=7

very safe when using an air hammer and cutting tool.

[SeanC]

Thanks for the response Joe, but unfortunately, I don't have access to those tools (and don't really have the money for them either...). I have a dremel that I was planning on buying a bunch of cutting blades for. Any suggestions on how not to turn that into a dangerous situation?

[FroSSty]

Go slow and keep the sparks to a minimum... The more fuel in the tank means less fumes to explode but also means more to feed the fire...

[Mark B]

Go slow and keep the sparks to a minimum... The more fuel in the tank means less fumes to explode but also means more to feed the fire...

The fewer the fumes the better. They are what ignites. I dont think how much fuel you have in the tank is going to matter in the end if it catches fire. Eitherway... Your car is toast.

[Injuneer]

If you cut correctly, the fuel lines are only under 1 side of the rectangle. Consider getting the cut started with a wheel, then using tin snips.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348183/9

[SeanC]

Okay, i'll definitely get a pair of tin snips so I don't have to grind the whole way. Thanks for the help everyone! Is the fuel pump I posted correct?

[4THGEN Z]

I did the trapped door method on my car a couple months ago. I made a starter hole with a drill using a depth collar on the bit so if I slipped, I would not dive down into the tank, and I used the tin snips and this took all of 15 min taking my time. I used the Wiss brand snips, worked very well!

[Blazer]

I did mine with the Dremal all the way. There was little or no sparks and it took about 10 min.s And I am still posting. I do not see why you should have any fumes at all.
Blazer

[SeanC]

Thanks for all the responses everyone. I'm about to order the fuel pump, but just wanted to make sure this is the correct one:

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...PA-003&eq=&Tp=

Thank you!

[darkhorsecustoms]

I'm pretty sure that's the one I used.

[raroZ28]

Thanks for all the responses everyone. I'm about to order the fuel pump, but just wanted to make sure this is the correct one:

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...PA-003&eq=&Tp=

Thank you!

You can get the walbro pump that you need brand new for 99 shipped. No need to spend 150 on a fuel pump.

[SeanC]

That is a walbro pump....where are they selling them for $99?

[raroZ28]

That is a walbro pump....where are they selling them for $99?

This is the last pump I had, and it's the same pump that's in the racetronix kit for more money...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBR...Q5fAccessories

That pump lasted me a few years. It's a higher pressure pump than the 307 (which is what I'm running now). This is the recommended pump for turbo/sc cars.

I'm running the 307, but since they're both the same price, you may as well get the 340.

[Bananasaboutcars]

The trap door is an awesome idea, I just spent a fortune getting my fuel pump and sending unit replaced because there was no way I was going to be able to drop the tank working out on the street. They ended up taking off the exhaust (which was rusted out and crumbled) and then dropping the tank. All in it cost me a fortune and about 2 weeks of . Coulda just used a dremel and about 900 little cutting discs...