My car is making a fast ticking noise that is always noticable in reverse and is louder and audible in any gear once the engine is up to temp. It sounds like its coming from the oilpan area, changed the oil yesterday and didn't see any metal shavings. Between that and the waterpump dying I've about made up my mind on getting a differant car.
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is the noise still there after replacing the water pump?93 t/a A4 3.23s
95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8
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Take your time.
You can do the WP without removing the radiator but I personally have found it to be worth the extra labor and time to drain and pull the radiator. The extra working room is worth it IMHO.
Remove the cooling fans, drain the radiator, drain the engine block, remove the intake elbow, remove the top radiator support, remove the hoses, remove the radiator (be careful of the low coolant sensor or you will end up replacing that too...) remove the belt, remove the AIR pump bolts and push it aside, unplug the temp sensor, remove the 6 bolts for the water pump, pull the pump, clean the gasket surface, silicone on both sides of the new gasket, install new pump, reinstall everything else, refill coolant, check for leaks, run car up to temperature and remember to "burp" the system to get all the air out.
Personally, I would replace all the clamps with new ones as well as the thermostat, temp. sensor and any hose that even looked questionable.
What did I miss guys?My DD
2015 Lexus GS350 FSport
My toy
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Originally posted by sneitzelWhat did I miss guys?
I've done it with radiator in and out. Personally I think it's easier just leaving the radiator in and taking the fans out. It's a pita getting the radiator over the A/C lines. It is a little harder on the knuckles and you have to be carefull not to damage the radiator. So it's kind of 6 to one, half dozen to the other.Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.
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Originally posted by BrdWAtti2dEasier if you get the Coil/ICM assembly out of the way...if memory serves me the alternator too, seems like one of those brackets was in the way...My DD
2015 Lexus GS350 FSport
My toy
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I removed the rad. support, coil, and air pump, used my 1/4" ratchet and extension for the one between the p.s pulley. Started putting coolant in and it leaked right out, my brother went undeneath and says it looks like its coming from a bolt in the engine block? Didn't have time to jack it up had to go to work, I'll have to investigate this weekend.
1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock
1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
2001 Intrigue GL
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I believe two (maybe one?) bolt needs RTV as it penetrates the water jacket.
Don't remember which one, but the one that is leaking...Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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