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  • Engine noise

    My car is making a fast ticking noise that is always noticable in reverse and is louder and audible in any gear once the engine is up to temp. It sounds like its coming from the oilpan area, changed the oil yesterday and didn't see any metal shavings. Between that and the waterpump dying I've about made up my mind on getting a differant car.

    1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

    1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
    2001 Intrigue GL

  • #2
    Are you sure the noise isn't coming from the bad water pump?
    Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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    • #3
      Ya its a knock/rattle kind of sound it was there before the waterpump died.

      1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

      1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
      2001 Intrigue GL

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      • #4
        Two things come to mind when you say "rattle". Loose heat shield or the cats going bad. Get under the car and smack the cat lightly with the side of your fist or a rubber mallet. If it rattles the ceramics have come lose inside.
        Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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        • #5
          I'll try that tomm. the the wierd thing is it always does it in reverse, and in drive when its hot. To me it sounds like its coming from the crankshaft.

          1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

          1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
          2001 Intrigue GL

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          • #6
            I'd just get under there and start shaking stuff around and see if anything is loose. If something it hitting the driveshaft it should be easy to spot.
            Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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            • #7
              is the noise still there after replacing the water pump?
              93 t/a A4 3.23s
              95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
              99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
              99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
              97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
              93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
              00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

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              • #8
                The waterpumps going in tomm. the motor seemed better after a change w/10w40. Didn't run it much though cause of the water leak. Any tips on the install? Wanna make sure I do it right the first time.

                1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

                1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
                2001 Intrigue GL

                Comment


                • #9
                  Take your time.
                  You can do the WP without removing the radiator but I personally have found it to be worth the extra labor and time to drain and pull the radiator. The extra working room is worth it IMHO.
                  Remove the cooling fans, drain the radiator, drain the engine block, remove the intake elbow, remove the top radiator support, remove the hoses, remove the radiator (be careful of the low coolant sensor or you will end up replacing that too...) remove the belt, remove the AIR pump bolts and push it aside, unplug the temp sensor, remove the 6 bolts for the water pump, pull the pump, clean the gasket surface, silicone on both sides of the new gasket, install new pump, reinstall everything else, refill coolant, check for leaks, run car up to temperature and remember to "burp" the system to get all the air out.

                  Personally, I would replace all the clamps with new ones as well as the thermostat, temp. sensor and any hose that even looked questionable.

                  What did I miss guys?
                  My DD
                  2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

                  My toy

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sneitzel
                    What did I miss guys?
                    Easier if you get the Coil/ICM assembly out of the way and a good time to do the ICM stand-off mod, and if memory serves me the alternator too, seems like one of those brackets was in the way, but it's been a while since I've done it.

                    I've done it with radiator in and out. Personally I think it's easier just leaving the radiator in and taking the fans out. It's a pita getting the radiator over the A/C lines. It is a little harder on the knuckles and you have to be carefull not to damage the radiator. So it's kind of 6 to one, half dozen to the other.
                    Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by BrdWAtti2d
                      Easier if you get the Coil/ICM assembly out of the way...if memory serves me the alternator too, seems like one of those brackets was in the way...
                      I did mine without touching the coil but that is up to you. The PS pulley is kind of in the way but with an extension and possibly a universal you can get to the bolts without removing that. Come to think of it, I think I did remove the belt tensioner but that was easy, 2 bolts.
                      My DD
                      2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

                      My toy

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                      • #12
                        I removed the rad. support, coil, and air pump, used my 1/4" ratchet and extension for the one between the p.s pulley. Started putting coolant in and it leaked right out, my brother went undeneath and says it looks like its coming from a bolt in the engine block? Didn't have time to jack it up had to go to work, I'll have to investigate this weekend.

                        1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

                        1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
                        2001 Intrigue GL

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                        • #13
                          I believe two (maybe one?) bolt needs RTV as it penetrates the water jacket.

                          Don't remember which one, but the one that is leaking...
                          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
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