Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

manual fan switch

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • manual fan switch

    ok i am making my manual fan switch and my SES light comes on. i dont knowif its a 47 or 470 ohm resistor and are their 3 to use? look at the diagram i found
    http://shbox.com/1/fan_sw_diagram2.jpg

    need help PLEASEEE!! it ticked me off this took 2 hours when said to take 30 min >< plus isthat howthe resistorsgo? the one resistor ina resistor?
    1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

  • #2
    Ok I work with electronics in the navy so our prints are differnet. but what i can get out of this is that yes there are 3 seperate 1 watt 47 ohm resistors. now the two resistors at the top they are running in parralel. its designed like that so that they share the current draw. so that how you need to wire them. hope this helps.

    99 T/A WS-6
    SLP strut tower brace, SLP sub-frame connectors, SLP intake, SLP Loudmouth exhaust, shift kit, SLP suspension system, SLP y-pipe
    2004 Mineral Gray Mustang Mach1 (stock, but ordering the SLP Loudmouth)
    88 IROC-Z, ZZ430 CRATE MOTOR, Flowmaster exhaust, MOSER 12-bolt with gears, and a few other mods.

    Comment


    • #3
      Since you don't say what year your car is, I must assume you have a 1996 or 1997 (because of the SES). Why is there confusion over 47 or 470 ohm? It says 47. Some people have used 1/2 watt resistors and seems to work ok. I think the 1/2 watt ones are easier to find.
      Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

      Comment


      • #4
        While were on the subject of fan switch.

        I have one from SLP. I was wondering if anybody has added any LED's to that one to indicate high and low?

        Any input would be appreciated.
        97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


        1and1 Web Hosting

        Comment


        • #5
          1/2 Watt 47 ohm

          http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=271%2D1105
          97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


          1and1 Web Hosting

          Comment


          • #6
            AWSOME THANKS GUYS!! since their so cheap i'll buy a pack of 47, 470, 1 watt and 1watt 47 ohm. heck mabey i can make this kit and sell it!! (like on ebay or here!!! )
            let you guys know what turns out.
            1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

            Comment


            • #7
              SWEEET!! the1/2 watt 47 ohm resistors worked perfectely noses lightat all (its a 97 for those who wonder)
              thanks again everyone~!
              1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

              Comment


              • #8
                When I run my fans manually at the track, I just open the hood, yank the relay and stick in a jumper wire. You'll have the hood open between runs anyway to help it cool better, right?

                What is with all this complicated resistors and switches?? Is it really necessary?

                I'm guessing there is another reason behind all this?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tabahr
                  When I run my fans manually at the track, I just open the hood, yank the relay and stick in a jumper wire. You'll have the hood open between runs anyway to help it cool better, right?

                  What is with all this complicated resistors and switches?? Is it really necessary?

                  I'm guessing there is another reason behind all this?
                  I'm going to change the thermostat to 160. Currently I have no intention to buy a programmer to reprogram the fans. I figure the switch will do the job.

                  Traffic in the Toronto area is heavy and a stretch that normally takes me 50 min. has taken me 2 1/2 hours. In the Summer in stop and go it gets pretty hot.

                  I guess I could pull to the side and open the hood and plug in the wire like you do. Allthough I guess I'm not really looking for best performance in stop and go. Just like to have the engine run cooler if possible.
                  97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


                  1and1 Web Hosting

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Black97
                    I'm going to change the thermostat to 160. Currently I have no intention to buy a programmer to reprogram the fans. I figure the switch will do the job.

                    Traffic in the Toronto area is heavy and a stretch that normally takes me 50 min. has taken me 2 1/2 hours. In the Summer in stop and go it gets pretty hot.

                    I guess I could pull to the side and open the hood and plug in the wire like you do. Allthough I guess I'm not really looking for best performance in stop and go. Just like to have the engine run cooler if possible.
                    gotcha, but i'm still confused as to why wiring a switch would require a resistor?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tabahr
                      gotcha, but i'm still confused as to why wiring a switch would require a resistor?
                      The resistor is to keep the 96-97 pcm happy and not cause it to throw a fan code (OBD-II is picky) .

                      Reasoning behind the "complicated" switch is convenience. Not everyone is at the track when they want to switch their fans on.
                      Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        ok i made anotehr one! any one wantto buy it got $20.00? included led's and switch and everythig allready soddered and wierd together.
                        1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rob B (shoebox)
                          The resistor is to keep the 96-97 pcm happy and not cause it to throw a fan code (OBD-II is picky) .

                          Reasoning behind the "complicated" switch is convenience. Not everyone is at the track when they want to switch their fans on.
                          Thank you very much for the explination. I learn new stuff every day reading this forum.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Actually all you have to do is run a your own relay hooked up to a switch of your choice and tag into the large gauge wire out from the relay to the fans. If you're REALLY lazy (like me) you just run a switch of your choice to the trigger wire of the factory relay under the hood. No codes, no "special" stuff needed, about 5 minutes and your done. Mine are hooked to the parking lights. Motor gets hot, turn on the parking lights. Also, you have to run lights at the track at night, so you're already going to have them on anyway, so you kill two birds with one stone.
                            "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MN6WS6
                              Actually all you have to do is run a your own relay hooked up to a switch of your choice and tag into the large gauge wire out from the relay to the fans. If you're REALLY lazy (like me) you just run a switch of your choice to the trigger wire of the factory relay under the hood. No codes, no "special" stuff needed, about 5 minutes and your done. Mine are hooked to the parking lights. Motor gets hot, turn on the parking lights. Also, you have to run lights at the track at night, so you're already going to have them on anyway, so you kill two birds with one stone.
                              See... That makes sense to me. The resistor thing had me all confused. Why not just tap into the factory relay and trip them on that way??

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X