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  • Nitrous or Supercharger?

    OK I am torn. It is going to end up costing me around $4K for my direct port nitrous setup all said and done. I am now thinking.... I could spend just a little more and stick a Procharger F-2 on my solid roller 383. Keep in mind this motor is going to be in a dedicated drag car.

    What do you think? What would you guys do?

  • #2
    well since its gonna be in a dedicated drag car then that changed things. Will the supercharger give you as much power as the Nos?? If its just a drag car then I'd probably go with the Nos coz those extra horses really make a difference down the quarter. I've seen so many big engines pushing huge hp lose to weaker cars due to Nos, so for drag i'd go with the Nos. Thats my opinion anyway.
    93 camaro Z28, A4 auto
    http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/503401

    "he who hesitates is lost."

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    • #3
      Personally I'd rather have a nasty nitrous prepped motor running a 300shot of direct port go juice. This way the power can modulated with a progressive controler, so you don't simply burn off the rubber in the 60'. With a procharger, the power is always there and can't really be modulated unless you use some type of spark retard device, but if you have to retard the spark to hook up, why bother?



      JMHO



      KnightFire
      1993 Formula Firebird
      Check Homepage for mods and photos...

      KnightFire's Lair


      Amsoil Dealer

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      • #4
        Nitrous, cause you can PURGE !!
        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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        • #5
          Add a nitrous pump station to the bill as well. You'll want to keep the bottles topped off for consistant pressures. That being said, with a computer contoller, it will be much easier to dial the power in and get it to the ground with the nitrous.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
            Nitrous, cause you can PURGE !!
            I can purge in the bathroom.

            That's a no brainer to me. I've done the nitrous thing before. I had to fill the 20# bottle about every 2 weeks. At $2.50 a pound, that was $50 every 2 weeks. Times 26 weeks = $1300 a year. In 2.5 years, you've paid for the supercharger. And it's always there. No turning knobs. No "purging". What a waste of nitrous that was. The longer the car sat in the sun, the more it had to purge. Besides, the whine of a blower is like a Les Paul in overdrive.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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            • #7
              Both? It is the only logical decision... hehehe...
              Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

              Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jay 02 TA ws6
                Both? It is the only logical decision... hehehe...
                I was thinking th esame thing. The man that can't make up his mind needs BOTH!!!

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                • #9
                  Why does it matter which makes more power? As long as it is close. I always thought consistancy won races, not power. If you could nail your dial in every time you went down the track, you'd never lose a race, right?

                  I dont like filling n2o bottles. It seems a waste of time and $$ to me. I'd go for the charger and rig up some electronic timing retard to help the launch if need be.

                  Besides.. everyone is using n2o these days. Dare to be different!
                  Tracy
                  2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                  1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                  Current Mods:
                  SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TraceZ
                    Why does it matter which makes more power? As long as it is close. I always thought consistancy won races, not power. If you could nail your dial in every time you went down the track, you'd never lose a race, right?

                    I dont like filling n2o bottles. It seems a waste of time and $$ to me. I'd go for the charger and rig up some electronic timing retard to help the launch if need be.

                    Besides.. everyone is using n2o these days. Dare to be different!
                    Tracy you are absolutely right, but that only applies to "bracket" classes, where the person running closest to his dial in w/o exceeding it wins. However, I will running in a "heads up" class where ET is what wins you the race hands down.

                    I think I am kinda leaning towards a blower now. It takes RPM to build boost with a centrifugal blower, so the launch isn't nearly as squirrely as a nitrous launch. I am going to call Procharger today and discuss some options with them.

                    Damn, I overshot the budget on this project BIG TIME!

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                    • #11
                      I've always hated nitrous, its fake power go with a super charger.

                      1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

                      1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
                      2001 Intrigue GL

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by gimp19
                        I've always hated nitrous, its fake power go with a super charger.
                        No offense, but I never really understood why people thought that n20 was somehow cheating.

                        You are essentially doing the same thing as a supercharger. Getting more oxygen into the cyliders.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by gimp19
                          I've always hated nitrous, its fake power go with a super charger.
                          That statement is ridiculous. Nitrous is "fake" power. What does that mean??? Just like fast ta said, your doing essentially the same thing, (forcing oxygen into the cylinder) its just another way of doing it.
                          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            After having been through the "300-shot" thing, I really think its easier to make the big HP with a blower. With nitrous, you seem to be always running into the theoretical "50%" limit.... which isn't really a limit, but does accurately indicate that you really can't spray more than 50-60% nitrous HP on top of your "motor" HP. To make 1,000HP total, you need to be making 650HP on motor. Yet I've seen a 550-600HP "motor" yield 1,125HP with a blower, with less exotic fuel than I had to use to run a 300-shot on top of my 500HP motor.

                            First.... are you planning on entering any "specific" class of racing? I know when we sponsored the "Fastest Stock (style) Suspension F-Body" events a couple years ago, we had a limit of "1 power adder". Other classes require that you use a stock block (LT1 or LS1), some limit head configuration, some limit cubic inches and weight. You need to taylor the engine to the class you pick.... and I'm sure you know that.... but it might affect the answer you get from others if they know what rules, if any the engine has to meet.

                            If you are just using the car for match race "look how fast my F-Body" events, you can consider a double power adder, like a small shot of nitrous on top of a blower. Its amazing what a 50- to 75-shot of juice will due to a blower motor running 20psi of intercooled boost.

                            I like nitrous for a street car.... you build a nice mild, emissions legal, street friendly motor, that just happens to have a large dose of steroids available.

                            I would not use the hard to launch issue to govern things... Ever see a big blower car come off a trans-brake at 3,500-4,500rpm.... its scarey. But you don't back off on power, you put the suspension and tires under it that will allow you hook with thye power you have. People run 7's with 10" tires.... it can be done.

                            This power wasting wheelstand was cured with 2 simple suspension changes. The car ran a 9.04 without lifting the wheels off the track.....

                            Fred

                            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                            • #15
                              "At $2.50 a pound, that was $50 every 2 weeks. Times 26 weeks = $1300 a year. In 2.5 years, you've paid for the supercharger."

                              What you are not figuring in is that the supercharger will have to be rebuilt probably every year, and you've just thrown a whole bunch more money into the scheme. Blowers, turbos, and superchargers are nice, and yes they can make some big time power, but they are ALWAYS stressing the motor, and they are ALWAYS stressing themselves, and stress=friction=rebuild. Believe me, nitrous is the way to go in this situation. $1300 a year for nitrous refills is chump change compared to a new blower every year on top of a rebuild. Big power means big repair bills, and the only thing you replace on nitrous kits is filters and solenoids. A couple hundred a year is nothing compared to $3000 superchargers.
                              "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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