stock LS1 + $1000 = 12's?

[Dean80Z28]

Why? You can still launch at different RPMs, and shift at different times with a rachet shifter and a nice shift kit. Just flooring it when you see green isn't always the BEST way of doing it.

There is a rev limiter at 6000. No matter though, the horsepower peak is at 5400 RPMs, and it would make no sense to try to drive the engine far beyond that. I have decided to try shifting at around 5700 or 5800 next time to the track. Not only does the engine make no power that high, if you drive the stock engine to much higher than 6500 RPMs, you can say hello to valve float.

I'm not sure what your power band is, but on a 4-cylinder car when dragging, it is good to rev beyond your peak power RPM. Why? Because when you shift you'll be closer to the power band (or IN the power band) of that next gear.

I had my 95 dodge neon set up for Drag/daily driver street use before I parted it out. Don't laugh yet. I was running each gear out to 7400rpms, granny shifting, and landing beautifully in my the beginning of my power band for the next gear. It was good for a 14.9... in an n/a neon with horrible tires and a few nice bolt-ons

I'm still learning about V8's though, so I'm not saying I'm definitely right. Might wanna look into it, though...?

[Fast Mother]

Originally posted by TrAnS Am 98
wow right now im real happy my parents got me an auto

*quote edited for clarification*

[Jay 02 TA ws6]

Originally posted by Dean80Z28

I'm not sure what your power band is, but on a 4-cylinder car when dragging, it is good to rev beyond your peak power RPM. Why? Because when you shift you'll be closer to the power band (or IN the power band) of that next gear.

There really isn't a "beginning" to my powerband, lol...

Aboe 2800 RPMs, I am ALWAYS above 325 RWTQ. Shifting at 5700 instead of 6000 isn't going to put me that low. I will have to test it out to make sure, but I estimate that would put me around 4000 in the next gear, which just so happens to be the beginning of my 360 RWTQ peak... I am perfectly flat from 4000-4700 -- 360 ft-lbs the whole way.

[Dean80Z28]

oh ok, thanks for clearing that up. On my neon R/T I don't get much power below 3500rpms lol..



Originally posted by TrAnS Am 98
wow right now im real happy my parents got me an auto
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*quote edited for clarification*


LOL oh god.. haha

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by briantech98
guess he didn't believe in the principle of "breaking in" a brand new car, eh? geez.

did i say anything about him not breaking the car in first? you just assumed that. he put his grand or so on it first.

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by fastTA
I would do cam, LT's, Whisper Lid, LS6 intake manifold, and ported throttle body.

You could go with a cam such as the Thunder Racing 224 cam. Specs are 224/224 @ .050", .563/.563, 112 LSA 1700-6600 RPM Power Band.

You could do all the above for around $1200 and make around 360-370 RWHP.

That should put you deep into the 12's!

the only way to do all that at that price is get a gr8 deal on parts and do all the work yourself!

[briantech98]

Originally posted by Fast Mother
quote:Originally posted by TrAnS Am 98
wow right now im real happy my parents got me an auto



*quote edited for clarification*

lol... too funny.

[Fast Mother]

Originally posted by briantech98
lol... too funny.

It just had to be done!.....

[fastTa]

Originally posted by wolfman
the only way to do all that at that price is get a gr8 deal on parts and do all the work yourself!

$400 - camshaft
$650 - good LT's
$50 - LS6 manifold (ebay!)
$90 - Whisper Lid Kit (ebay!)
$60 - TB porting

and yes doing all the work yourself................priceless!

[Craig 2000 TA]

Originally posted by briantech98
so what exactly do you do with a 6 speed? can you launch it at all? Like sit there with the clutch in, put it at what like 3k rpms? then drop the clutch, floor it

This will depend on what kind of traction you are getting. If track prep is good you may be able to do that. I found about 2500 rpm on my stock LS1 was about as high as I could go otherwise I just spun out of the whole

Originally posted by briantech98
... when do you shift? if you just keep flooring it and never shift, will the engine blow or does it hit some kind of rev limiter or something?

This is a little different for everyone. My dyno showed my car made no more power after 5500 so I try to shift about 6000 which allows only a little drop in RPM and keeps me in the power band.

Originally posted by briantech98

so then lets say you shift at like 6500 or so... do you just keep it floored and try to shift real fast, or do you let off the gas while shifting and then floor it again...

and typically how many gears do you go through to get through the 1/4? all the way to 4th or 5th?

Some folks power shift, some dont. I'm afraid to leave my tranny on the track in little pieces. I drive mine to the track still so need to drive it home! If you dont shift you will hit a rev limiter and you car will lose power and sort of surge. You should probably get into fourth....first and second go quick... most time will be spent in third and you will probably get halfway to three quarters through 4th

My suggestion would be to work on getting a good launch. let a little air out of your rear tires...just a little! you want them a little soft then really work on nailing the tree reaction time and a good sixty foot. If you hear a loud rapid banging from the rear its most likely tire hop and you should put the clutch in and get off the gas for a second then get back on it and finish the run.

Before you actually get on the track go to spectate. watch others see what they do...how they line up. Watch the tree as they line up. Also more importantly watch where the cars exit... very much important. Finally when you take your turn...take an easy pass the first time....get the feel for it. Doo all this and you will be fine and likely enjoy an adreniline rush like you have never had before.

Just one other thing...Accidents happen everytime you take your car on the track the possibility is that you might scratch her up or worse. Its a risk you take and be assured your insurance company is not going to pay for repairs but your bank will still expect you to make payments. I dont mean to sound harsh but its a reality and something you need to come to terms with

Good luck and be sure to let us know how you did!

[new era performance]

I picked up my 99 camaro Z28 LS1 A4 mid summer last year . Completely stock , I did 13.7 @100 . By the end of summer I ran 12.8 @ 105 , I put in a TCI 3000 rpm Torque Convertor with tranny cooler , GMS MAF , SLP Lid , GMS Predator , 160 t-stat , and tb coolant bypass . That was about $1300 worth of bolt ons . I did not change the gears (stock 3.23's) , I didn't use slicks (street tires) .
Now I got SLP lt headers and high flow cats , and a loudmouth exhaust , walbro gss340 pump , K&N filter , Nitrous Express EFI wet kit (100 shot) , and a Transgo shift kit . I got to go to the track and see what she pulls now , should be able to put down some 11 second timeslips without even pulling the intake off or using slicks no problem .