trying to hook-up, suspension

[seannz28]

I know that 90-10's are pretty much a drag set up for the front, I don't want to go quite that extreem, but what really makes the difference in hooking the tires when you floor it and dump the clutch is the rear suspension. The car is an 82 camaro w/ a 383, I plan to make about 400hp at the wheels once finished, but because its a stroker, the torque is gonna be nuts. I have heard around 450 at that horse. any sugestions?

[Joe 1320]

What you say couldn't be the farther from the truth. It takes a complete package and tuning to get the car to hook. Aclassic example is a L98 tuned port motor. Even stock, it's hard to hook. After a few mods, the car is definately quicker but low speed traction is almost non existant. Now re-tune the motor for less low end torque but more midrange and upper rpm power. Now the car hooks with a stock suspension, ETs are quicker and life is grand. Another scenerio is that you got the motor, you've got the rear suspension, but the car won't hook because of poor weight transfer..... the front end won't rise enough to load the rear tires on the launch.

A complete thought out suspension package must be built to complement the rest of the powertrain. There are so many variable that there is no way anyone can really comment with specifics until you provide more information. Stuff like whether the car is a street car daily driver, street/strip or strip only. Each asnwer is going to give you a different suspension combo. Ditto for the wheels and tires.

[N20LT4Bird]

...and when you do hook it, say goodbye to the 10 bolt rear.

I would say, look into a stronger rear end and a set of slicks, maybe some bolt on suspension goodies from Spohn or BMR. Subframe connectors, LCA's etc..

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
...and when you do hook it, say goodbye to the 10 bolt rear.

Um, yeah. What he said.

[seannz28]

JOE 1320, Youre talking about somone who has an extra 20 grand sitting around to spend on a car. Most of us here aren't millionairs, we're hobbiests. Now, would I like to go all out and throw in the whole "tunning package", of course. but something stands in the way of that and its called money. I would assume that most people would know this. I was more asking for advise as to whats gonna help me out, and not work against me off the line.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Maybe you could get adjustable shocks all around and set them for track day, V6 springs in the back, battery in the trunk, and some used slicks or drag radials. If you got a friend with a welder, then box the control arms & other cheap stamped suspension junk. Which exact rear end do you have? Some of the 10 bolts were better than others - you might still have to beef it up though & get some good axles. You might just be able to fashion a weekend racer for less than 20Gs and not compromise too much streetability.

[Black97]

For most of the guys and gals here on this board this is a hobby. Most of us don't have 20 grand lying around either.

You seem to have a plan for your engine. I think Joe is trying to say that you need a plan for the rest of it. It's a combo deal.

What good does you a 400 HP engine if the tires don't hook or the rear end bites the dust when you try to drag it?

Do what N20LT4Bird recommends beef up your suspension, drivetrain and then add the power. The more power you have the beafier the other parts need to be.

[Joe 1320]

I'm going to ask ONE more time..... street car, street/strip or drag only? I'm not suggesting anything without more info, I'm not being sarcastic about spending $20K, people need to be more specific when thay post questions. A street suspension will be a different setup than the strip.....

[seannz28]

street/strip. NOT a daily driver. My goal is to do a 2-4 inch wheel stand, but I will have this car until I die, so I have SOME time, but I know I have to beef the rear, I just don't have the cash now
I am still paying for my engine (Heads, intake, carb, headers, etc etc.) my next project is gonna be suspension. I do have a friend with a 110 volt welder, but as it goes for sub frame connecters, It looked to me like the floor pan was actually lower than the front frame, so i would have to put a block on both the front and rear frame.....maybe bottome out??? (the car is an 82 z28)
so there you have it. Street/ strip....mostly street

[Joe 1320]

finally.....


Either boxed or tubular lower control arms. Stay with urethane or urethane/rubber. Stay away from solid heim joints, that's for strip only.

Lower control arm relocation brackets to change the geometry of the rear control arms for better rear chassis lift.

Subframe connectors.

Adjustable front and rear struts/shocks

Adjustable panhard rod to center the rear in the chassis. Rubber/urethane only , no heim joints.

Eibach Drag launch rear springs.

Severe duty rear sway bar.

Adjustable torque arm with crossmember mount, not tailshaft of trans mount.

driveshaft saftey loop.

Slicks.

Maybe airbags in the rear springs......

Disconnect front sway bar for the track for better front end lift.



This should make it hook.



I can recommend BMR, Fred can recommend Spohn, so you have lots of choices.

[seannz28]

Okay, the torque are with a cross member mount.
The stock one is attached to the tranny which is connected to the engine which is conected to the frame with rubber motor mounts. that rear axel is gonna want to move around, If I put a torque arm that connects the axel to the frame, it'll bust the arm won't it? or make all the suspension useless?

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by seannz28
Okay, the torque are with a cross member mount.
The stock one is attached to the tranny which is connected to the engine which is conected to the frame with rubber motor mounts. that rear axel is gonna want to move around, If I put a torque arm that connects the axel to the frame, it'll bust the arm won't it? or make all the suspension useless?

the arm won't break due to the mounting point. As a matter of fact, the crossmember mount is stronger than the mount on the trans.


From BMR's website:
Factory torque arms do a great job at robbing horsepower and torque and "dissolving" it into the chassis. Replace your weak, flexible stamped metal torque arm with a rigid BMR tubular version and put that power where it is supposed to be - the pavement! Made from MIG welded 1.25" x .120" tubing with heavy 3/8" mounting plates. Bolts directly in place of factory torque arm using all factory mounting locations. Requires no welding or drilling and clears all factory or aftermarket exhausts. Comes equipped with a rear adjuster for adjusting pinion angle and a new, low deflection polyurethane front mounting bushing. Available standard in your color choice of red or black powdercoat, additional colors also available by special order. Works on 1982-2001 V8 F-Body('82-'84 requires purchase of '85 or newer torque arm "clamshell" mount). Also fits all V6 F-body with one piece driveshafts.

NOTE: This torque arm has been safely tested to 11.0 in the quarter mile and is not recommended beyond. These restrictions are due to the limitations of the transmission tailshaft housing mount, not the torque arm. If your car exceeds these levels of performance, the BMR Trak Pak© or Xtreme Duty torque arm(below) is recommended to remove the stress from the transmission tailshaft


The extreme duty version:

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/XtremeDuty.htm

[seannz28]

.

[seannz28]

wow great site. BUT the torque arm you were talking about, was that the extreem one, or whatever? cause thats the only one I could find....and 500 some odd dollars is quite a bit. but the less, awsome site.

[Rhode Island Red]

FYI the extreme Torque Arms meant for heavy dulty HP are not too street friendly... even hard core guys who run 10's will attest that they switch between the stock torque arm and the beefy one when going to the track.. id all depends on what you plan to run, and what you are comfortable with

I can attest about the 10 bolt.. I was filanny getting 2.00's in the 60 ' with BFG comp TA DR's on a stock car with the 10-bolt... in short I, got the traction, and the rear went by-by... It is repaired but I am saving for a strange 12-bolt now ($2500 )

I am convinced, that once I get a good suspension, the seconed thing is to do power mods, not the other way ..

you dont want broken drive shafts coming into the cabin, broken rears 200 miles from home and etc...