Originally posted by 02Z28
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Would these rims fit my T/A?
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Eric W.
89 Firebird Formula WS6
Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
6.2L/382.97 ci
Custom PROM Dyno tuned
WCT-5 speed
BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
Boss MS 18" Rims
Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
Custom Dual exhaust
1LE upgrade
Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
In a constant state of upgrade!
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Originally posted by Joe 1320Those are 16x8 corvette wheels. I am thinking around 87, they aren't 84s or 85s, and 89 and up get even more different. I'll have to do a little research to be specific. Usually 255s are the largest tire to put on there but Michelin used to make an upgraded size somewhere around a 305/40/16, but don't know if they still make it or not.
If memory serves me right.....Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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fastTa
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fastTa
Originally posted by DeWynterIm no tire expert but I really dont think that a front o back rotation will do a whole lot for your tires as the whole point of a conventional rotation is to get them on the other side of the car for even wear on both sides of the tire. Also if you are going to use directional rubber its most likely a z rated tire which wont last long anyways. least not on my formula
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yeah, and if you rotate the tires every time you're *supposed to* change your oil (3 mths/3000 miles), even with front-to-back rotation, your tires will last longer, cause you're taking the tires off the front that wear on the edges and putting them on the back, which will help them "even out" somewhat
i do agree that speed-rated tires will not last as long as regular tires, but as long as you don't smoke the tires from every stoplight, they should still last a good while
Red '02 Z28 M6 - purchased 6/24/04 with 11,706 miles
CAGS Eliminator
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Cross-rotation was the "standard" for tire rotation, before radial-ply tires became popular. (Another case of "old age" being a benefit - who else remembers using Atlas "Bucron" tires for drag slicks?) When the radials first came out, the manufacturers recommended ONLY front-to-back-same-side rotation, in the belief that this was necessary to prevent the band from taking a set on one side of the car, and then being "loosened up" or causing directional instability when the tire was swapped to the other side. As radial tire technology improved, this concern was eliminated, and the use of either front-to-back or cross-rotation became acceptable options.
I don't think any manufacturers currently recommend 3K oil changes, except under severe duty application, and I doubt any of them recommend a 3K mile tire rotation. My 1994 Owner's Manual recommends the first rotation at 6K miles, and subsequent rotations at 15K mile intervals, for both "normal" and "severe" driving conditions.
I don't think you can make blanket statements about "speed rated" or "directional" tire tread life. The technology has improved to the point where you are not giving up much, if anything in tread life on them. I ran my OEM Goodyear GS-C's for about 20K miles, before I upgraded to 17" wheels and tires. The OEM GS-C's had more than 50% of the original tread left on them at 20K miles. I replaced them with 275/40-17 GS-C's, and when I removed them after 40K miles of use, they still had about 1/3 of the tread on them, and showed no sign of irregular wear. They were rotated (front-to-back, since they are directional) at about 10K mile intervals. Rotation is critical to insuring uniform tread wear on all tires and for maximizing tire life. I think people who own "speed rated" tires simply tend to drive a lot harder than the average person.
Unfortunately, I can't rotate my 275/40-17 BFG KDW fronts with the 315/35-17 BFG DR's in the rear.....
315 DR on the left, "worn out" 275 GS-C on the right
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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