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  • storing my car for over a year

    I am going to Iraq and I am leaving Sept 1st. I will be gone for a year and a half. My dad is going to let me store my T/A in his garage, however I want to do it right. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to store a car for that long? My dad said he will take it around the block once a month (it will not have insurance so he can't drive it around far). It will be in a garage so i don't have to worry about the paint and interior. Should I just sell the car, or store it. I love the car and I am thinking it might stay the same value since it will still have 67k on it. I was just wondering if I need any oil treatments or gas treatments. I have mobil 1 in it.

    Thanks
    jon
    2001 Black WS6 6-spd, 47k. stock...I think.

  • #2
    Clean it up really well, get a soft cover and put some silica gel packets on the seats to keep moisture out. Treat the rubber seals with some protectant so it doesn't dry rot.

    Dont start it while it is being stored, that is bad for it.

    Remove the battery. Plan on replacing it when you take the car out of storage because it will likely be shot aftere not getting used for that time.

    Jack the car up and store it on stands instead of letting it rest on the tires. This will prevent flat spots on them. Treat the tires heavily with a protectant to prevent dry rot.

    Add stabilizer to the gas

    Plan on changing the oil and puting a new battery in it when you decide to put it back on the street.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

    Comment


    • #3
      TraceZ, I've heard NOT starting a car periodically when stored is bad for it, because gaskets get dried out, etc... True cold starts are rough on engines, but an engine goes through a cold start anytime it's been sitting for a few hours. Once a month shouldn't hurt it bad should it?

      Also, while I would probably also jack the car up, I don't think it's neccesary. ken can chime in on this, but today's radial tires don't get flat spotted like tires used too. Also, if the car's jacked up, it wouldn't be able to be driven easily.

      I agree with everything else TraceZ said. It might be wise to have some type of insurance on it, though. Most companies have a "storage" insurance for cars that are in strorage. That way if the garage would catch fire, or get blown over, or the car is stolen, you're still covered. The insurance should be cheap since it's not being driven.
      Dave M
      Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


      Comment


      • #4
        I agree w/ dave, when i was storing my car (6-8 months) my mechanic said to start and run it weekly (but i had someone willing)... gas does go bad. So if you have someone willing to do it, i recommend it... then you wont have to worry about the battery either. The stabilizer would be good if its going to be driven only once a month. But these guys know way more then me...

        -- Good luck in Iraq, thank you... and God bless.
        99 Z Hugger Orange 9/05

        93 Z 6/03


        Zaino!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by TraceZ
          Clean it up really well, get a soft cover and put some silica gel packets on the seats to keep moisture out. Treat the rubber seals with some protectant so it doesn't dry rot.

          Dont start it while it is being stored, that is bad for it.

          Remove the battery. Plan on replacing it when you take the car out of storage because it will likely be shot aftere not getting used for that time.

          Jack the car up and store it on stands instead of letting it rest on the tires. This will prevent flat spots on them. Treat the tires heavily with a protectant to prevent dry rot.

          Add stabilizer to the gas

          Plan on changing the oil and puting a new battery in it when you decide to put it back on the street.
          That's a pretty good list.

          I can personally attest to Bridgestone RE920 245-50X16 Z rated tires flat spotting after sitting for a couple of months. After I drove it and they heated up they went back to pretty round. If you jacked it up after sitting you could see the flat spots. I would definitely put it on stands.

          I was told to make sure you had a full tank of gas along with the stabilizer. I was told this would help keep the moisture out of the tank when it gets cold.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            If you really want protection, order a car "bubble" or jacket. once all the other items are done, the "bubble" is placed on the floor and opened up so only the bottom is on the floor, the car is driven onto the buttom fold, jacked up on stands and finally the bubble is zipped shut leaving the car totally enclosed in it's own sealed environment like a big ziploc sandwich bag. They make the bubble in sizes from motorcycle up to trucks and is the ultimate long term storage accessory.

            Personally, if I were storing it for a year and a half, I would start the storage with fresh fluids. I mean everything from brake fluid to trans fluid. That will ensure that the fluids have as few contaminates as possible.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Joe 1320
              If you really want protection, order a car "bubble" or jacket. once all the other items are done, the "bubble" is placed on the floor and opened up so only the bottom is on the floor, the car is driven onto the buttom fold, jacked up on stands and finally the bubble is zipped shut leaving the car totally enclosed in it's own sealed environment like a big ziploc sandwich bag. They make the bubble in sizes from motorcycle up to trucks and is the ultimate long term storage accessory.

              Personally, if I were storing it for a year and a half, I would start the storage with fresh fluids. I mean everything from brake fluid to trans fluid. That will ensure that the fluids have as few contaminates as possible.
              Don't forget to suck the air out of that zip lock bag. LOL Sealed for freshness
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment


              • #8
                That info about gaskets drying out is old school. In today's modern car, they don't dry out. You will cause more harm than good if you drive it around the block one a month. Condensation will build up in the exhaust and it will start to rust from within, not to mention all the contaminants in the oil that won't get hot enough to burn off because it won't reach operating temp.

                You should get the oil (use a synthetic) changed right before storage and put in some Sta-Bil then fill up the gas tank. K&N makes an oil filter with a valve that prevents the oil from draining back into the oil pan, this minimizes engine wear during a cold engine start. Remove the battery and place inside the house or some other controlled environment. Before you put the battery back, take it to the local Autozone and they should charge it up for free. I store my car from Nov - Mar every year and this system works like a charm.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sta-Bil is good stuff. Definitely fill up the tank as this will help to eliminate the chance of moisture absorbtion. Also before you park the car for good, run the car for a while after you have already put the Sta-Bil in the tank, That way it will work it's way throughout your entire fuel system from the pump to the injectors.

                  It were me, I would bleed the brakes/clutch and then top off with fresh fluid. Brake fluid or hydraulic fluid is bad about absorbing moisture as well.

                  I would also fill the motor to the brim with a good synthetic as well. Get it as full as possible. You can drain the excess when you come home.

                  Also it is very important that you remove the spark plugs and pour at least 5-6 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder. Replace the plugs then turn the motor over for about 10 revolutions by hand to ensure that the oil is evenly spread. This process will prevent your rings from rusting and sticking to teh cylinder wall.

                  I would also spray some WD-40 over all of the metal surfaces on the motor and on all of the pulley bearings. Spray a silicone based protectant on all of the rubber hoses.

                  The only other thing I can think of is to put a plastic baggie on the exhaust tips and the throttle body and then seal them with a rubber band. This will help to keep moisture out of your exhaust and motor.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    another point about putting it up on stands would be not only to prevent flat spots on the tires but also in the wheel bearings...they need to roll once in a while especially if the weight of the car is sitting on them for an extended period of time.
                    95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      sooo would it just be better to sell it? I don't want problems with it when I come back. The part about putting oil in the spark plug holes is a great idea, however that is a lot of work to pull them out....then some how poor oil in it...then put them back in. Do you think $9100 for it would be a reasonable price for it? its got 67200 miles on it...new clutch. Thats the money i have in it.
                      2001 Black WS6 6-spd, 47k. stock...I think.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by stingant0
                        sooo would it just be better to sell it? I don't want problems with it when I come back. The part about putting oil in the spark plug holes is a great idea, however that is a lot of work to pull them out....then some how poor oil in it...then put them back in. Do you think $9100 for it would be a reasonable price for it? its got 67200 miles on it...new clutch. Thats the money i have in it.
                        Nah, you are better off keeping it. Just change the oil before you start it, it will be fine, really. I've seen cars go through worse without any harm.

                        I would put it up on stands and add stabilizer to the gas also. And put the battery inside where it is warm and keep a trickle charge on it.

                        All the other precautions are great, but too much hastle, IMO. She'll be a sight for sore eyes when you finally get home, and a good thing to look forward to while you are gone. You can't lose.
                        Tracy
                        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                        Current Mods:
                        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Beware of the rats. My friends 01 SS got all chewed up... ECU wires, fuel injector connectors were eaten, etc.... I'd be more concerned about them than anything. You'd be amazed where they can fit..
                          97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                          01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            raro is right, I've gotten mice nests in my TA before over winter.... darn nests are hard to get out from under the intake manifold!
                            Dave M
                            Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you are going to be storing your car for over a year I would strongly suggest putting the marvel mysterty oil in the cylinders......trust me. If just one of the rings manges to rust to the cylinder wall (and when being stored for over a year that is very likely), it won't be good when you go to start the car! Just ask yourself, is your car worth to you merely a days work to prevent any problems from being stored for over a year? If it is not, then selling might it might be the option in your favor.

                              JMHO.

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