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  • #16
    Originally posted by fastTA
    If you are going to be storing your car for over a year I would strongly suggest putting the marvel mysterty oil in the cylinders......trust me. If just one of the rings manges to rust to the cylinder wall (and when being stored for over a year that is very likely), it won't be good when you go to start the car! Just ask yourself, is your car worth to you merely a days work to prevent any problems from being stored for over a year? If it is not, then selling might it might be the option in your favor.

    JMHO.

    If he pours 6oz of oil in each cylinder, how does he get it out in a year? It will hurt the catalytic converter if it all goes out the exhaust, and it will lock the engine if the motor is in a compression stroke.

    You'd have to somehow suck it all out with a straw or something?
    Or, remove all the spark plugs and slowly turn it over so goes out the exhaust valves. It can only drain out the spark plug holes so fast, if you turn the motor to quickly, it will go out the exhaust valve.

    It does sound like it could be a good idea, if done properly.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

    Comment


    • #17
      I take it you have never used this procedure before for storing a vehicle Tracy.

      98% of the Marvel Mystery Oil will run down in to the crankcase through the rings overnight. The point is just to provide a film of protectant on the cylinder wall, pistons, and rings. When he comes back and fires the car for the first time, the very little remaining residual oil will be burned off immediately.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by fastTA
        I take it you have never used this procedure before for storing a vehicle Tracy.

        98% of the Marvel Mystery Oil will run down in to the crankcase through the rings overnight. The point is just to provide a film of protectant on the cylinder wall, pistons, and rings. When he comes back and fires the car for the first time, the very little remaining residual oil will be burned off immediately.
        OH! I get it now. Boy am I dumb.

        Could you just pop out the fuel rail and pour a little in the injector hole while you have a buddy bump the starter?

        It would be easier than pulling the plugs.
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by TraceZ
          OH! I get it now. Boy am I dumb.

          Could you just pop out the fuel rail and pour a little in the injector hole while you have a buddy bump the starter?

          It would be easier than pulling the plugs.
          Sure could. Actually the way people do it with carbs just to pour it in through the carb itself.

          The injector bung idea on a LT1 is a good idea Tracy.

          See, you're not dumb............just a little slow. j/k

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by fastTA
            Sure could. Actually the way people do it with carbs just to pour it in through the carb itself.

            The injector bung idea on a LT1 is a good idea Tracy.

            See, you're not dumb............just a little slow. j/k

            I rode the short bus to school.
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by TraceZ
              I rode the short bus to school.
              ............

              Comment


              • #22
                What really is most important, stay safe in Iraq!

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by fastTA
                  Sure could. Actually the way people do it with carbs just to pour it in through the carb itself.

                  The injector bung idea on a LT1 is a good idea Tracy.

                  See, you're not dumb............just a little slow. j/k
                  I just caught the "bump the starter" part. If you do this make sure to disconnect the coil wire and all of the injector terminals. You don't want a combustion to occur or any fuel to dilute the MMO.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by fastTA
                    I just caught the "bump the starter" part. If you do this make sure to disconnect the coil wire and all of the injector terminals. You don't want a combustion to occur or any fuel to dilute the MMO.
                    I was thinking that the best bet would be to pull the fuel pump fuse, and remove the coil wire.
                    Tracy
                    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                    Current Mods:
                    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Jon,
                      Good Luck in Iraq. Take it from a guy that has already been there twice.. listen to the guys that have been there for a while. I don't know your rank so I won't give you the speech about listening to your old NCO's BUT it WILL save your life. Its not a picnic over there but also its not dodging bullets 24/7 either. Pay SPECIAL attention to what they tell you to do during a mortar attack. Don't loose your head.. drop to the ground if your not in your bunker and ALWAYS keep your "stuff" an arms length away. Your flak vest and kevlar are you ticket home. Just keep your head in the game and don't trust anyone unless they wear the same uniform you do.

                      Good luck and if you need anything pm me and I will see what I can do to hook ya up

                      AL


                      1995 Z28 M6 Ragtop
                      Mods are:
                      18X9 1/2 ZO6 rims
                      Hot Wheels steering wheel cover
                      Hurst Classic Shifter Ball with 6-speed pattern
                      K&N CAI , I LIKE IT!! it REALLY does make a difference!


                      more pictures of the hooptie

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by TraceZ
                        I was thinking that the best bet would be to pull the fuel pump fuse, and remove the coil wire.
                        Only thing is, there might be enough residual fuel and/or pressure in the rail and injectors to spray just enough fuel to dilute the MMO.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by fastTA
                          Only thing is, there might be enough residual fuel and/or pressure in the rail and injectors to spray just enough fuel to dilute the MMO.

                          If the fuel rail is off the manifold, along with all the injectors it could spray fuel around outside, but into the motor. Maybe it is a best bet to pull the fuse and bleed off the pressure at the shrader valve just so it doesnt me a mess all over when you crank it.

                          I'm going to try it this fall.
                          Tracy
                          2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                          1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                          Current Mods:
                          SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by TraceZ
                            If the fuel rail is off the manifold, along with all the injectors it could spray fuel around outside, but into the motor. Maybe it is a best bet to pull the fuse and bleed off the pressure at the shrader valve just so it doesnt me a mess all over when you crank it.

                            I'm going to try it this fall.
                            Yeah you're right. I wasn't thinking about the rail being lifted.

                            Who's riding the short bus now!

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I would agree with you guys if the car was sitting untouched for a year and a half, but his Dad has agreed to help with starting it up periodically.

                              My car is stored every winter from November to April. I always start it up a few times a month and let it run for a half hour in the driveway, rev it up a few times and move it around. I get it nice and warm, to the point where the exhaust tips are hot. I drive it on the roads if they are dry; it keeps everything working nice. Granted, its only for a few months, but it has always seemed to work for me....
                              96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                              11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                                I would agree with you guys if the car was sitting untouched for a year and a half, but his Dad has agreed to help with starting it up periodically.

                                My car is stored every winter from November to April. I always start it up a few times a month and let it run for a half hour in the driveway, rev it up a few times and move it around. I get it nice and warm, to the point where the exhaust tips are hot. I drive it on the roads if they are dry; it keeps everything working nice. Granted, its only for a few months, but it has always seemed to work for me....
                                It is better for the car to NOT start it. Starting an engine is the worst thing you can do to it. Almost all wear occurs at startup. It is even worse if the car has sat a couple weeks because there is no oil on the cylinder bores.

                                The best way to do it is to prep it well and let it sit. That is how professionals do it.
                                Tracy
                                2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                                1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                                Current Mods:
                                SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                                Comment

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