Hi everybody, for a while I have been trying to track down this rotten egg smell I notice sometimes when I drive my car. When my car was a A4 I only notice the smell when I floored the car and when I got to a stop light, the smell would araise. When I converted my car over to a M6 I notice it when I cruise at high rpms and when I get to a stop the smell araises. So today I decided to get my cat replaced with a new one that I bought. The converter I bought was a carsound cat. I though it would fix the problem but apparently the smell is still there. Also last week I replaced my spark plugs. The plugs look good, no signs of the car running rich. So now I am out of ideas. I had a buddy scan my car, and he was not able to see anything wrong. My car use to be a dual cat but I converted over to a single cat. Would programming be required for this? Also my friend loaded up a M6 file after the T56 swap. The O2s have been replaced. Would a bad EGR cause this or a bad fuel injector? Or would I have to change out my opti? Any help would be apprecaited. Thank you in advance for your time and help.
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Help Tracking Down Rotten Egg Smell
Eric Lelina
95 Z28
Tuned by Carolina Auto Masters
302hp and 335tq
M6,GMPP CAI,1.6 Crane Gold RRs, MAC Headers,1LE intake elbow,Air Foil,!TB Bypass,Hypertech 160 Thermostat,Taylor Spiro-Pro 8mm Wires,Accel Super Coil,MSD 6al,SLP 2otl catback, Eibach Pro Kit,DMS SFCs,Hotchkis STB,BMR Adjustable PHR,Global West LCA,1LE Sway bars front and rear,KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, Energy Suspension Tranny Mount and Endlinks,Prothane Poly Torque Arm Mount,LS1 Driveshaft,17x9 SS rims.Tags: None
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The car is running rich. What are your oxygen sensor readings? The most common cause for this is a bad O2 sensor. It could be caused by a bad injector, one that is stuck open. The PCM will compensate for an overly rich mixture unless: a) it has erroneous info from the O2's b) the output (fuel inj) are not doing what they are supposed to c) the PCM is faulty d) the problem is so severe that the fuel trim is not capable of compensating.
I would take a hard look at the O2 sensors again......96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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Try a different brand of fuel. Excess sulfur levels can cause the sulfur to be converted by the cat to sulfur dioxide = rotten egg smell (actually, its nowhere near "rotten eggs".... my science teacher kept a rotten egg in a jar, just in case anyone wnated to debate the issue )Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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N2OLT4Bird, you mention about checking the readings of the o2s. I was wondering what should I look for when I am scanning my car. The scan tool I am using is Diacom. Also what else should I look for? Should I do the test at wot or just regular driving conditions? Injuneer, I have tried different brands of fuel but I have stayed with the highest octane and I am still having the same problem. I just replaced my cat yesterday with a brand new carsound cat. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.Eric Lelina
95 Z28
Tuned by Carolina Auto Masters
302hp and 335tq
M6,GMPP CAI,1.6 Crane Gold RRs, MAC Headers,1LE intake elbow,Air Foil,!TB Bypass,Hypertech 160 Thermostat,Taylor Spiro-Pro 8mm Wires,Accel Super Coil,MSD 6al,SLP 2otl catback, Eibach Pro Kit,DMS SFCs,Hotchkis STB,BMR Adjustable PHR,Global West LCA,1LE Sway bars front and rear,KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, Energy Suspension Tranny Mount and Endlinks,Prothane Poly Torque Arm Mount,LS1 Driveshaft,17x9 SS rims.
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Originally posted by My Mighty White 95 Z28N2OLT4Bird, you mention about checking the readings of the o2s. I was wondering what should I look for when I am scanning my car. The scan tool I am using is Diacom. Also what else should I look for? Should I do the test at wot or just regular driving conditions? Injuneer, I have tried different brands of fuel but I have stayed with the highest octane and I am still having the same problem. I just replaced my cat yesterday with a brand new carsound cat. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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