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How to bleed the LT1 cooling system?

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  • How to bleed the LT1 cooling system?

    What's the best way to bleed the cooling system? Here is what I've done so far (did I do it correctly?):

    1. Let the engine warm up.
    2. Cracked the lower bleed valve.
    3. Let coolant flow out of it for about 4 seconds (I couldn't tell if there was any air or not, coolant just came out).
    4. Closed the lower valve.
    5. Opened the higher valve.
    6. Let the higher valve drain coolant for a few seconds (I couldn't tell if air was in the system here either).
    7. Closed the higher valve.

    To recap, the reason I did all this is because there are times when the car runs at around 210 to 235 degrees. In fact, yesterday afternoon, because it was running at around 230 degrees, I parked the car and let it idle with the hood up. Even with the heater blowing and the hood up, the temp gauge wouldn't come down below 210-220. The temperature outside was about 102 degrees.

    But there are also times when the car will run around 190 degrees. Based on people's response, it sounds like the stock LT1 should run around 190 and perhaps approach 210 only in slow moving, hot summer traffic. --I understand the secondary or high speed fans kick in at 226 degrees but this seems too hot to me.

    Anyway, a few people suggested I bleed the system first and so I'm trying that but I'm not sure if I did it correctly. If I did, I guess the next step will be to flush the system this weekend and see what happens, unless anyone has any suggestions. Note that the radiator and condensor are in exellent condition. And the coolant was flushed and the water pump replaced last May. I don't know if the thermostat was replaced. The stock air dam (think that is what it's called) under the car is in good condition.

    Also, if an option is to upgrade to a higher capacity radiator, can anyone recommend what kind to get and where?

    Thanks!
    Martin
    Utah
    94TA stock
    '94 TA. A4, MagnaFlow Catback, ZR1 Replica Wheels, Hawk Brake Pads (HPS), 58k miles.

  • #2
    You may have to go through the proceedure several times. Make sure the overflow tank has fluid, make sure the radiator cap is up to snuff or you won't get proper flow to and trom the expansion tank, and make sure there is plenty of fluids in the radiator to start with. When I changed water pumps, it took 3 heat up and cool down cycles along with bleeding 3 times to purge all the air. One trick to keep air circulating even when stopped is to run the a/c..... that automatically kicks on the fan to keep air flowing over the condenser not relying on the regaular fan on/off temp settings. You will probably want to pick up either a 170º or 160º thermostat. Not sure if you have one already, but with proper fan operation the car should run approximately 10-15º higher than the thermostat opening temps at speed, 20-25º at idle without the aux fan for the a/c.

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    • #3
      Joe, do you have to let the engine cool all the way down before bleeding again? Also, how do you know when you've purged all the air? Just by how hot the temp guage reads after taking for a test drive?
      Martin
      '94 TA. A4, MagnaFlow Catback, ZR1 Replica Wheels, Hawk Brake Pads (HPS), 58k miles.

      Comment


      • #4
        Joe, sorry, nevermind my last questions, I didn't see your last sentences...
        Martin
        '94 TA. A4, MagnaFlow Catback, ZR1 Replica Wheels, Hawk Brake Pads (HPS), 58k miles.

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        • #5
          Martin, you'll have to let it cool down in order to open the cap. When you purge the air, if it is a significant amount, your fluid level will drop a bit. You'll need to probably add a little to bring it to the top again, close it and run it up to temps and purge. Again, be sure the cap is up to snuff or it will create another set of headaches. FYI, my car runs no hotter than 179º at speed with a 160º thermostat. If I unprogram my cooling fan temps and set them for stock, the car would run as high as 215º or so in stop and go traffic. This is normal, albiet I don't like it running that hot. They are designed to run at those temps to keep emissions at their lowest levels.

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          • #6
            Sorry, do you mean that I should have the radiator cap removed and/or the overfill bottle cap removed when bleeding? If this is the case, I screwed up. --I didn't have either of these caps off when I was bleeding the system.

            Bigger rookie than I thought I was,
            Martin
            '94 TA. A4, MagnaFlow Catback, ZR1 Replica Wheels, Hawk Brake Pads (HPS), 58k miles.

            Comment


            • #7
              Neither..... close the radiator cap, run to temp and bleed. Let it cool down, open the cap and check the level, top off if needed. Close it and run it up to temp again. Do this several times until all the trapped air is gone. (be sure to run the heater controls to the full hot position as well as the fan to rid the system of air in there as well). The overflow tank can be opened at any time, hot or cold. Just make sure it has plenty of fluid.

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              • #8
                Good deal and thanks! I'll try that tonight.
                Martin
                '94 TA. A4, MagnaFlow Catback, ZR1 Replica Wheels, Hawk Brake Pads (HPS), 58k miles.

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