What's the best way to bleed the cooling system? Here is what I've done so far (did I do it correctly?):
1. Let the engine warm up.
2. Cracked the lower bleed valve.
3. Let coolant flow out of it for about 4 seconds (I couldn't tell if there was any air or not, coolant just came out).
4. Closed the lower valve.
5. Opened the higher valve.
6. Let the higher valve drain coolant for a few seconds (I couldn't tell if air was in the system here either).
7. Closed the higher valve.
To recap, the reason I did all this is because there are times when the car runs at around 210 to 235 degrees. In fact, yesterday afternoon, because it was running at around 230 degrees, I parked the car and let it idle with the hood up. Even with the heater blowing and the hood up, the temp gauge wouldn't come down below 210-220. The temperature outside was about 102 degrees.
But there are also times when the car will run around 190 degrees. Based on people's response, it sounds like the stock LT1 should run around 190 and perhaps approach 210 only in slow moving, hot summer traffic. --I understand the secondary or high speed fans kick in at 226 degrees but this seems too hot to me.
Anyway, a few people suggested I bleed the system first and so I'm trying that but I'm not sure if I did it correctly. If I did, I guess the next step will be to flush the system this weekend and see what happens, unless anyone has any suggestions. Note that the radiator and condensor are in exellent condition. And the coolant was flushed and the water pump replaced last May. I don't know if the thermostat was replaced. The stock air dam (think that is what it's called) under the car is in good condition.
Also, if an option is to upgrade to a higher capacity radiator, can anyone recommend what kind to get and where?
Thanks!
Martin
Utah
94TA stock
1. Let the engine warm up.
2. Cracked the lower bleed valve.
3. Let coolant flow out of it for about 4 seconds (I couldn't tell if there was any air or not, coolant just came out).
4. Closed the lower valve.
5. Opened the higher valve.
6. Let the higher valve drain coolant for a few seconds (I couldn't tell if air was in the system here either).
7. Closed the higher valve.
To recap, the reason I did all this is because there are times when the car runs at around 210 to 235 degrees. In fact, yesterday afternoon, because it was running at around 230 degrees, I parked the car and let it idle with the hood up. Even with the heater blowing and the hood up, the temp gauge wouldn't come down below 210-220. The temperature outside was about 102 degrees.
But there are also times when the car will run around 190 degrees. Based on people's response, it sounds like the stock LT1 should run around 190 and perhaps approach 210 only in slow moving, hot summer traffic. --I understand the secondary or high speed fans kick in at 226 degrees but this seems too hot to me.
Anyway, a few people suggested I bleed the system first and so I'm trying that but I'm not sure if I did it correctly. If I did, I guess the next step will be to flush the system this weekend and see what happens, unless anyone has any suggestions. Note that the radiator and condensor are in exellent condition. And the coolant was flushed and the water pump replaced last May. I don't know if the thermostat was replaced. The stock air dam (think that is what it's called) under the car is in good condition.
Also, if an option is to upgrade to a higher capacity radiator, can anyone recommend what kind to get and where?
Thanks!
Martin
Utah
94TA stock
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