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  • #16
    The side with the leak should have been the one with the high BLM because the O2 would have been sensing lean and adding fuel resulting in the long-term correction of 142-150.

    Also, when the engine is cold, don't forget it is making more racket from everything having looser clearances.

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    • #17
      You're right, the side with the leak was supposed be running false lean, but it wasn't...which completely stumped me. That's why I now believe it didn't have much to do with the BLM readings. Plus, the O2 sensor is before the leaky joint in the passenger's side. Also, considering the big split would only happen at cell 16, I don't think it's something to do with each specific bank IMHO. And I never touched the driver's side, yet it shot from 142 to 128. So, I'm beginning to believe the MAF ends had something to do with this. I'll try switching them back and seeing what the readings turn out to be.

      So the RRs will cause the module to report false knock when it's cold because of the looser tolerances - should I tighten them down a bit, or would that only make it worse for when it gets hot? They're currently at 1/2 beyond 0 lash.
      Thanks again...
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
        So the RRs will cause the module to report false knock when it's cold because of the looser tolerances - should I tighten them down a bit, or would that only make it worse for when it gets hot? They're currently at 1/2 beyond 0 lash.
        Thanks again...
        That was just a last effort guess - I would leave them as is. If your car only has retard when it's cold, then no worries - you're not going to romp on it until it's warmed up, are you?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
          That was just a last effort guess - I would leave them as is. If your car only has retard when it's cold, then no worries - you're not going to romp on it until it's warmed up, are you?
          Oh no, I....would...never...do...that lol

          No, in all seriousness, I never get on it when it's cold.
          I guess I would prefer to have them perfect when warm, because I would fear the valves being too tight and never having full compression. If they're too tight, could the valve actually hit the piston? Or would that have to be extremely over tight?
          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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