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Is my LT1 Clutch History......

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  • Is my LT1 Clutch History......

    Here is the story, I have a 95 z28. The clutch engagement is very high on the pedal, you only have to push it maybe an inch or two disengage drive.
    If you try to launch hard in first from a stop, assuming the tires hook up you can here a sluggish reving and see the tach move but not proportionally to the speedometer. If you drive 70 in fifth or sixth, clutch it, rev it up high and pop the clutch the rpm's stay high and slowly drop to normal, definitely not any kind of near immediate lock up.
    This is the second OEM, could the problem be somthing else, maybe slave cylinder. It has plenty of fluid too. Is there an adjustment.
    Plus you can smell it burning during hard use too.
    Thanks
    1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
    Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
    Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

  • #2
    maybe its your driveing...lol sorry bro i had to say it

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    • #3
      The above descriptions are for diagnostic purposes which obviously never occured many years and miles ago, therefore something has changed. If the vehicle launched with a authority when you wnat it too like it should I would not be complaining, this is afterall a performance sports car (I think). I also dont make it a rule to pop the clutch at 70 MPH either, again diagnostic purposes only. I am trying to provide all the information and symptoms for an experienced more intelligent and helpful person than YELLERrangeredge to provide a diagnosis on this issue. I understand that things break and wear out but I dont want to throw money at the problem needlessly. It may be something is simple as an adjustment, then again it might not. Ive been told that OEM clutches are kind of delicate to begin with. But for all intents and purposes lets assume that I know how to drive my car.
      Thanks
      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

      Comment


      • #4
        first dont call him dumb. seccond maybe it is your driving style

        it sounds like the clutchs didnt last to long but they lasted long enough for it to not be a HUGE problem that says to me u either ride the clutch or u race around to much..but seeing as i dont know u i cant say ANYTHING for sure. so do u ride the clutch a little to long? do u ever catch urself resting ur foot on the clutch pedal??

        i ask these questions because a friend of mine was smoking through clutchs like they were soft drinks. he also exploded when questioned about his driving style, but since i pointed it out his car has stopped eating clutchs i guess that damn gremlin ran off

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        • #5
          When I drive I dont ride the clutch or have any other improper driving behavior that im aware of, all I know is the car does not perform like it used to because somthing has changed. The car is 10 years old and used to be a daily driver. It has 275-40-17 tires which are bigger than stock hence more traction, it has a few HP bolt-ons but still close to stock. All I know is John Force could take my car to the strip and race Honda Civic and get smoked cause the clutch would slip coming out of the hole. I know there is a problem, a mechanical problem in my drivetrain, it may be an adjustment but again im not sure. You guys are much more knowledgeable about this stuff than I am. But again, lets assume that it is not human error cause no amount of driving style change could cure whatever is going on.
          1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
          Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
          Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

          Comment


          • #6
            Its probably your clutch. Can you give some more details? How many miles are on your car? What is your driving style? I'm not trying to point the finger at all but do you rip around some in it? Do you launch hard very much? Are you sure that you don't ride around with your foot resting on it at all? When it was replaced before did you just replace the clutch or were there other parts replaced?
            1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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            • #7
              Perhaps I can help.

              The clutch eventually will wear to the point that the force it exerts on the flywheel just doesn't quite hold it with the same authority as when the componants are fresh. The other thing to look at is the hydraulic portion. Has the fluid ever been changed/bled? That portion is not a "no maintainance for the life of the vehicle" either. You could have even bent a fork just enough to be causing these symptoms. The only way you're going to find out is to take off the inspection cover and check the condition on the all the parts. Anything less is going to be pure speculation.

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              • #8
                I dont drive it like I stole and hardly ever burn out and never power shift. It has 70K on it and the last clutch was put in by the dealer around 30K or so. It appears to be the pressure plate to me and Im considering the SLP clutch. Ive been reading the SPEC clutches are grabby and stiff and I dont really want that. Again im not really hard on the car. Maybe the slave cylinder needs to be checked. How do you bleed the clutch by the way. Still has original flywheel and as far as I know the slave cylinder has never been touched.
                Thanks
                Bill
                1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Your description of your problems sound like what happened to me om my '85 camaro. The pedal would engage high and when it did it slip for days. All I did was replace the clutch. The tranny shop told me that the front tranny seal was leaking, so I had them change that also. Which I would recomend hile the tranny is out. And yes you should have the fluid flushed and checked for leaks. There is no adjustment. If I was replacing the clutch I would use centerforce. That is what I used and they are wounderful. The inprove pedal feel, but it is still driveble. just make sure that you take it to a well respected tranny shop, or have a couple of buddies help on a weekend.

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