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  • window motor

    my window motor died and one of my friends has a 1995 firebird she said its a pain in the *** to replace window motors im just wondering if i should do it myself anyway or if anyone knows how much it would cost to get a shop to fix it.
    1997 Camaro Z28 Pacesetter Long tubes, ORY-Pipe, Accel 30# Injectors, MSD Cap & Rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires, NGK Irdium TR55IV Plugs, and Borla Catback. Madtuner Tune, SLP High/Low fan switch, NGK o2 sensors

    New Longblock at 110,947 and everything above.

  • #2
    Shoebox has the directions for the fix on his site. Get a lifetime warranty replacement at Autozone or similar joint for around $60, plan on a couple of hours for the first one since you have to drill out 4 mounting riviets.
    The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.

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    • #3
      Fairly easy if you follow this: http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

      Window motors are $75 on average at local auto parts stores.

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      • #4
        There are only 3 mounting rivets, not 4. I just replaced one today in about 45 minutes.

        Follow Rob's instructions on his website.

        Also, please be aware we have a SEARCH feature on this forum and you would had gotten your answer easily that way without posting the question again.
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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        • #5
          Took a half hour for me my first time, it's not all that hard. Just print out rob's pictures, it'll save you trips back and forth to the computer.

          And if anybody can tell me if it sounds like their glass is slamming if they shut their door with the window cracked, I'd appreciate it. It's annoying, but I pulled my door panel and I can't figure out how to fix it....
          97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

          01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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          • #6
            Originally posted by raroZ28
            And if anybody can tell me if it sounds like their glass is slamming if they shut their door with the window cracked, I'd appreciate it. It's annoying, but I pulled my door panel and I can't figure out how to fix it....
            remove the door panel. there are two adjustment stops right at the top edge of the door. They are metal brackets with a felt bumper. You most likely need to adjust them.

            to adjust them you should do the rear bracket first. lower the window 2", push the window out until it touches the exterior weather molding. Now move the bracket twards the window until it nearly touches it and tighten the bolt. Now do the front one by moving it in until it nearly touches the window and tightening it.

            Be carefull not to move them too close to the glass. It could result in too much friction and scratch the glass. Once you are done the window should be able to wiggle 1/16" freely between the stops and the weather molding.

            It would also be a good idea to give the window tracks a good once-over and lubricate them. Make sure all the mounting bolts are tight.
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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            • #7
              My passenger window would roll up and down slowly then stall bout 3/4 the way up and it would take a while to get enough power to roll all the way up so i had a guy replace the motor and it cost 100 bucks to replace and he seemed to have a heckuva time with it also. Would not want to do it myself. Also i seem to have the same problem as you. When i shut the door with the window rolled down a little, it sounds aweful and seems like it could break when shutting it.

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              • #8
                I've done the motors in my Z myself. Piece of cake. Follow Rob's (shoebox's) instructions and you'll be done in a snap. It is a piece of cake if you follow the instructions.
                Steve
                79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by raroZ28
                  Took a half hour for me my first time, it's not all that hard. Just print out rob's pictures, it'll save you trips back and forth to the computer.

                  And if anybody can tell me if it sounds like their glass is slamming if they shut their door with the window cracked, I'd appreciate it. It's annoying, but I pulled my door panel and I can't figure out how to fix it....
                  You should also look at my window adjusting guide that is just below the window motor R&R on my Tech Page.
                  Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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                  • #10
                    Thanks rob
                    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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