12 second car

[96z28]

I was wondering what are some AFFORDABLE things that you could do to make a 12 second LT1 without using spray.

[LoudLT1]

what about a used supercharger ????
eddie

[96z28]

Ok that works but...... How much could I expect to pay for that and would i have to get low compression pistons? Cause that would be the price of the charger+ like 600 bucks

[LoudLT1]

you can get a used kit for arround 2,000 ....you will be able to use in on a completly stock set up as far as i understand. as long as you kep the boost low..
eddie

[96z28]

ok that works for me. Any specific brands i need to be on the look out for?

[MN6WS6]

Any reason behind the "no nitrous" rule?

The reason I'm asking is because Injuneer and I can both tell you how to take a bone stock LT1 and run WAY DOWN in the 12's with less than $1,000 in a SAFE nitrous kit.

How do I know? Because mine went 12.36.

[fastTa]

Auto or M6? If auto, you could go with a bigger converter (2800+). 3600 is more than streetable Many have gotten their auto LT1 f-bodies into the 12's with a full host of bolt-ons and a higher stall converter.

What about just doing a mild port to your LT1 castings and a cam swap. You could easily gain 50 RWHP and get your car very close to a 12 second timeslip. Cam swap and mild porting will be less than $1500.

[Joe 1320]

AFFORDABLE

I didn't know there was such a thing.

Seriously, it's going to take cash. Good is not cheap and cheap is not good. Which do you want? In order to acheive your goals, there is much more to it than simply adding power. When you do that, some parts don't work in harmony, other parts break, the end result is less than expected performance with lots of dollars invested. The best formula I have found is to resist adding significant power until the other weaknesses have been addressed. Stuff like suspension flex, rigidity and poor traction. Once a solid platform is in place, the power added is better put to use. For what it's worth, I am at 13.0s with an internally stock LT-1 A4 with a stock converter. While not a record, it's plenty stout for a stocker . Couldn't have done it without lots of little mods that add up.

[96z28]

My 1st mods I had planned were a 383 stroker kit and LT4 upgrade or get the LT4 hot cam and just get a good port job on my stock heads. What kind of power and 1/4 times do you think these mods would yield on a basicly stock a4 LT1?

[scotts94_z28]

thats what im doing, as you can see i have a few bolt ons in my sig and i just got my lt4 hotcam kit for just under 500 and im having that installed along with the heads ported and polished to mach for 1000

[Joe 1320]

My 1st mods I had planned were a 383 stroker kit and LT4 upgrade or get the LT4 hot cam and just get a good port job on my stock heads. What kind of power and 1/4 times do you think these mods would yield on a basicly stock a4 LT1?

You want an honest answer? You're not going to like what I tell you.

It will yield enough power to overpower the tires, giving you a horrible ET considering how much you spent. Then you get a more appropriate tire and suspension mods, then the clutches in the transmission fry. You spend another $2500 on a trans rebuild and the first time it hooks, the rear end breaks.

My advice is to consider every single upgrade you plan on doing to reach a finished goal. Look at whatever parts would benefit both a stock car and a modified one and put off your engine build up until the rest of the car is built to take it. The engine work that you are considering should be one of the final stages and not the first. But hey, that's merely an opinion based on how many times we've seen it in the past.

If all you want is 12s, ported factory heads and cam will get you there fairly inexpensively. Heck, with the right attention to details, just heads and external bolt ons will put you there.

[fastTa]

Like Joe basically said, power is basically worthless unless you can put it to the pavement. Look into doing at least some better LCA's with a relocation bracket, stronger adjustable crossmember mount torque arm, and a larger rear sway bar.

There are usually some very good deals on used suspension and chassis stuff in the for sale section's of ls1tech.com and cz28.com.

[96z28]

How much would it cost to do the suspension upgrades or whatever. I guess ot makes since to do that and then build it up from there. I seen a cheap supercharger for like 2300 and it only runs like 4.5 psi of boost. Could the car take that added power after the suspension and whatever else makes me hook up.

[Mike71]

ur engine will take that 4.5psi easily..depending on how cheap u can get them down on the SC u might want to do that now to kinda give ur ur fix for speed while u beef up the rest of the car

thats what i plan to do..sc it then build up the sus in the mean time ill have an SLP 402 sitting next to the car

[Z Ya Later]

A set of good sub-frame connectors, LCAs and reloc. brackets for the extra traction, rear sway bar and torque arm will be a good start. If you haven't done it already, the 1LE aluminum driveshaft would also be good. The stock rear can hold a lot depending on how you launch, what tires you're running and your motor. It'll take you into the 12s with bolt-ons as long as you don't overload it with torque at launch and don't run a super-sticky tire (i.e. slicks and the like lol). You can build up the sus. for about $1200 or so with Spohn LCAs, reloc. brackets, sway bar and torque arm and SLPs SFCs. Of course, Joe and Kevin can elaborate on this more and probably correct me if I'm wrong, but that's where I would look at.