...if your motor is stock and you aren't making a whole lot of extra power, drag radials will probably shorten your rear end's life... but it'll hold up for a while.
Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.
Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500
Depends to some extent whether you are running the A4 or M6 (you might want to include that info in your "signature"). The A4 generally subjects the rear to less shock. A 5K clutch dump on an M6 with drag radials or slicks might be more of a problem. The LS1 and LT1 rears are both the same weak 7.5/7.625" 10-bolt.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
I would suggest that if you plan on using anything but a regular radial, you add a rear differential girdle. It is a beefy cover that includes studs for the main caps as well as two preload studs to help keep the bearing caps from walking. As suggested, I wouldn't try high rpm clutch drops, but the girdle will help the differential live a little longer.
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