I just put a 160 tstat in my Bird and the heater never gets much warmer than luke warm. but the engine temp is way down
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1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
1 of 463
LT4 knock module
D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
strut tower brace
SLP fan switch
160* t/stat
Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
DMS 1.5" progressive lowering springs
Pictures Here
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Originally posted by 96ws-6I am having the same problem, No heat.. it kind of works if the car sits for about 20 after the temp reached 180. I have flushed the radiator twice and the core and the water flowed just fine in and out of the core, i bought my thermostat at advance auto, would they give me the wrong one? I measured the stat and the hole in the water pump and they are the same, could it be vaccum lines or anything like that2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
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looks like i got the right one1996 Firebird Trans Am ws-6 a4
BBK headers
3in. Exaust with flow 80
Port and Polished Heads
58mill Throttle Body
Lowered an inch
2:73s... 3:42 goin in soon
2001 S-10
Air-Ride - SOLD
2003 S10
Lowered 6 inches
2005 HD sportster 1200 custom
Drag bars
Lowered 3 inches
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Originally posted by 96ws-6i bought my thermostat at advance auto, would they give me the wrong one?
Below is a picture of the correct thermostat. Notice the stock SBC thermostat in the top center that is incorrect.
Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
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Are we sure that there is ample and or correct airflow over the heater core? The temperature control of the HVAC is supposed to control the mix of air passing through the core. If the air diverters are not functioning properly due to loss of vacuum signal or an obstruction, you'll get symptoms that you are describing. This may require disassembly of the area under the passenger side dash area as well as checking the vacuum signals to the HVAC head unit.
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Trace you are the man! hehe
I followed your instructions, I did it with rather limited tools, I should've lisened about the hose fittings, I had water all over me, hehe. What a pain to get to hose going to the water pump I suggest to everyone to use a jack.
You guys wouldn't believe the stuff flowing out of the heater core, more like red mud with beach sand. Also scared me a little, I wasn't expecting to loose so much collant. Me and my buddy put everything back together, immediately the "low coolant" light comes on temp. at 240 and increasing and cold air coming out of the vents. Sent my friend for some oolant, refilled it, took couple of cycles and bleeding to ge it going. The reward: finger burning heat, well it was about 42F outside, I am for the cooler days.
Oh yeah. The ' low coolant ' light comes on after driving for about 10 minutes, but I didn't notice the engine overheating or and drasttic temp. rise.
?? Add more coolant?
Anyway, Thanks again everyone. Ill update this situation tomorrow.1993 TA SOLD
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"Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"
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Originally posted by alensteinTrace you are the man! hehe
I Oh yeah. The ' low coolant ' light comes on after driving for about 10 minutes, but I didn't notice the engine overheating or and drasttic temp. rise.
?? Add more coolant?
.
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Originally posted by Joe 1320Yes, but likely you have trapped air. You'll have to bleed the system using the two bleeder screws located by the water neck and the coolant line. Put a rag under them to prevent coolant from dripping on the optispark. Start the car, add coolant and open the bleed screws until all the trapped air is allowed to escape and straght liguid starts to come out. Close the bleed screws. You may have to do this a couple of times to remove all trapped air.
1993 TA SOLD
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"Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"
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