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  • Spec stage 2 clutch question

    How long is it going to take for a Spec stage 2 clutch to wear in. This thing is awful. (I had the flywheel resurfaced) If I try and let the clutch out slow, it sets up a huge vibration in the driveline. I push the clutch in when it does this vibration and it slowly goes away after a couple of seconds. Reverse is the worst. I'm going to go take out the stock tranny mount and put in a poly mount to see if it helps. If I had known it was going to do this, I wouldn't have bought a Spec clutch.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

  • #2
    That doesn't sound like the clutch to me. Especially since it still vibrates after you push your pedal in. Who installed it? Got a Stage 2 on my Conquest, that thing is AWESOME. The pedal feel is superb, perfect feeling. No vibration, takes off like a smooth cruiser, grips like a race car. If you think you got a bogus clutch, call them up. They're super cool.
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by raroZ28
      That doesn't sound like the clutch to me. Especially since it still vibrates after you push your pedal in. Who installed it? Got a Stage 2 on my Conquest, that thing is AWESOME. The pedal feel is superb, perfect feeling. No vibration, takes off like a smooth cruiser, grips like a race car. If you think you got a bogus clutch, call them up. They're super cool.
      What else could it be? The clutch grabs as if it is warped. That's what starts the vibrations going. If I dump the clutch it is OK. I put it in when I swapped from an A4 to a M6. I'm going back under there to see if anything has come loose like the torque arm or U joint. I'm going to replace the mount to.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

      Comment


      • #4
        Can't tell you exactly, but are you sure your throwout bearing isn't sticking or something? Not a tranny expert, just throwing things out there. Your flywheel isn't likely to be warped. You used an alignment tool to put the clutch on correct? Torque specs on the flywheel and pressure plate followed to manual specs? Someone else can provide more insight, but I wouldn't think that is your clutch.
        97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

        01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by raroZ28
          Can't tell you exactly, but are you sure your throwout bearing isn't sticking or something? Not a tranny expert, just throwing things out there. Your flywheel isn't likely to be warped. You used an alignment tool to put the clutch on correct? Torque specs on the flywheel and pressure plate followed to manual specs? Someone else can provide more insight, but I wouldn't think that is your clutch.
          Throw out bearing is fine. It's actually connected to the pressure plate. I've never seen one like that before. Flywheel freshly machined. Alignment tool just gets the disk close enough to get the tranny in. Once it's in, the clutch aligns itself. All torque specs followed.

          I'd swear it is getting worse too. The car is up on 4 stands. I'm going to go look now.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a Spec 2 in my 96 WS6 and I have no problems like you are talking about. It sounds like something other than the clutch. Time to start hunting.
            "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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            • #7
              Well I put in an Energy Suspension mount. It feels softer than the Prothane mount. Everything seams tight. The only thing that seams odd is the rear end seams to have a little ring gear to pinion play. Maybe 5 degrees of the drive shaft. I think that is way over spec. I'm going to check my dope level (in the rear end guys) and take it for a spin.
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                Throw out bearing is fine. It's actually connected to the pressure plate. I've never seen one like that before. Flywheel freshly machined. Alignment tool just gets the disk close enough to get the tranny in. Once it's in, the clutch aligns itself. All torque specs followed.

                I'd swear it is getting worse too. The car is up on 4 stands. I'm going to go look now.
                Never seen the inside of one of these tranny's (the clutch flywheel setup), but what do you mean it just gets the disc cloe enough to get the tranny in? I thought you put the clutch disc up to the flywheel, put the alignment tool in, keeping the clutch against the flywheel, then bolt on the pressure plate, then that holds the clutch in place, then pull the alignment tool.

                Is it different on these cars?

                Throwout bearing on a pressure plate? How does that work? Anybody have a picture of an LT1 SPEC clutch and pressure plate?
                97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by raroZ28
                  Never seen the inside of one of these tranny's (the clutch flywheel setup), but what do you mean it just gets the disc cloe enough to get the tranny in? I thought you put the clutch disc up to the flywheel, put the alignment tool in, keeping the clutch against the flywheel, then bolt on the pressure plate, then that holds the clutch in place, then pull the alignment tool.

                  Is it different on these cars?

                  Throwout bearing on a pressure plate? How does that work? Anybody have a picture of an LT1 SPEC clutch and pressure plate?
                  That is how it works. Once you bolt the pressure plate up to the flywheel, the clutch won't move. So if it isn't close enough to centered, you can't get the tranny go through the clutch and into the pilot bushing. The aligment tool just gets it close. The clutch floats on the input shaft front to back. The pilot bushing keeps the input shaft centered.

                  Off to test drive it.
                  2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                  1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                  A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It's better but it's not fixed.

                    On another note the Energy Suspension trans mount is a lot quieter than the prothane mount.
                    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My car did the same thing a few thousand miles ago but it had nothing to do with what you guys are suggesting... my problem was that my intake manifold was leaking oil down into the bellhousing and causing my clutch to slip, I resealed the intake and my problem was solved. But i am pretty sure you would have noticed you have an oil leak but i figured i let ya know just in case. Oh does yours vibrate when shifting into every gear?? Because mine did it when shifting through all gears.
                      1997 6-spd WS6 Trans Am

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ws6drbob
                        My car did the same thing a few thousand miles ago but it had nothing to do with what you guys are suggesting... my problem was that my intake manifold was leaking oil down into the bellhousing and causing my clutch to slip, I resealed the intake and my problem was solved. But i am pretty sure you would have noticed you have an oil leak but i figured i let ya know just in case. Oh does yours vibrate when shifting into every gear?? Because mine did it when shifting through all gears.
                        Oddly enough, it didn't appear that my intake was leaking in the back. When I pulled the automatic it was dirty but not wet.

                        No it only does it from a dead stop in 1st or reverse. It does not do it at all when shifting but the shifting is fast not slow like when trying to start off easy. If I let the clutch out fast from a dead stop it hardly does it.

                        I'm hoping that if it will wear the high spot off the clutch that it will stop.

                        Thanks for the ideas.
                        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I got the Spec stage 2 clutch when I had my conversion done. The shop said I would have problems with a resurfaced flywheel, so I got a new one instead. I've had no problems with my conversion.
                          Hercules



                          2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DJ Taso
                            I got the Spec stage 2 clutch when I had my conversion done. The shop said I would have problems with a resurfaced flywheel, so I got a new one instead. I've had no problems with my conversion.
                            Interesting. I wonder why they said that.
                            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by DJ Taso
                              I got the Spec stage 2 clutch when I had my conversion done. The shop said I would have problems with a resurfaced flywheel, so I got a new one instead. I've had no problems with my conversion.
                              Yes, I try to avoid resurfacing flywheels at ALL costs, for the very reasons noted in this thread. How many times have you brought brake rotors in to be cut and had a brake pulsation afterward?.....same thing. Unless the flywheel is badly scored (in which case, get a new one) I always clean it up with just some emery cloth and put it back in....might be something to check.
                              96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                              11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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