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Barf..... fuel pump is DOA

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  • #1

    Barf..... fuel pump is DOA

    Just what I needed, went to start the car this AM and no fuel. The pump is dead. Just how I wanted to spend a Saturday, on my back in the driveway. At least the whole rear suspension has been upgraded so the bolts won't be frozen and on the mufflex I used stainless band clamps so everything should come apart easily. The other fortunate thing is there is less than half a tank of fuel. I'm still not looking foreward to doing the R&R.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Sorry Joe.
    LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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    • #3
      That's worse than my problem. Wednesday my clutch pedal took a dump. I thought you were supposed to dump the pedal. Something is wrong with the hydraulics.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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      • #4
        Oh you know you want to cut a hole in your rear floor....
        Greg W. in West Michigan
        1992 Formula WS6-A/R Rims, Stock L05 swap, Former Abuse Victim
        1983 Z28-Parts car- *Sold*
        1984 Z28-305 HO Auto *Sold*
        1986 Camaro-V-6 5Spd *Sold*
        1984 Camaro-V-6 Auto *Sold*
        <Motor out

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        • #5
          Originally posted by FroSSty
          Oh you know you want to cut a hole in your rear floor....
          I thought about it. In fact I thought about it for several minutes, then discounted it. I just don't want to cut the floor out. If I hadn't upgraded the exhaust and suspension, I would be more inclined to start cutting. It should come apart rather easy. It's still going to be a PITA, but it should be manageable.

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          • #6
            Be careful with the walbro pumps, if that's what you're getting. I replaced mine with a walbro and it died the next day. Took it back and got a new one, and it's been fine since. Be a shame if you went through the same thing after dropping the rear suspension. I was thanking god I cut a hole when that happened.
            97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

            01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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            • #7
              Sorry to hear 'bout it. I do have to ask, I haven't yet had to replace the fuel pump in my T/A, what is all involved? Sounds like I'm not going to like it But with my baby having 109K, I bet I'm gonna have to replace it soon.
              1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.

              Currently on the clock: 120K

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 'STANGETR
                Sorry to hear 'bout it. I do have to ask, I haven't yet had to replace the fuel pump in my T/A, what is all involved? Sounds like I'm not going to like it But with my baby having 109K, I bet I'm gonna have to replace it soon.
                Piece of cake if you cut a hole in the trunk. Takes literally 15 minutes.

                Or you can drop the rear suspension, drain the tank and drop that as well. Then pull the pump, replace, and put everything back together.

                If I had the space and time I'd do it Joe's way, but I had to get to work the next morning. No garage either, so I cut it up in front of my house and popped a new pump in.
                97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by raroZ28
                  Piece of cake if you cut a hole in the trunk. Takes literally 15 minutes.

                  Or you can drop the rear suspension, drain the tank and drop that as well. Then pull the pump, replace, and put everything back together.

                  If I had the space and time I'd do it Joe's way, but I had to get to work the next morning. No garage either, so I cut it up in front of my house and popped a new pump in.
                  When did you cut the hole? I'd sure like to see photos of a hole that has 20/30000 (or more) miles on it...I've seen lots of photos of holes when people have cut them, but later after a year or two of driving.

                  **This is my personal opinion only. Im not an expert in car structures by any stretch of the imagination, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...**

                  I have severe reservations about cutting a hole in the body, above the rear axle, of a unibody car. The majority of the pictures I've seen of these holes, shows people have cut them with square corners (a round or oval hole is better). They also haven't reinforced the opening before sealing it back up. This, to me, is just asking for stress cracks from the flexing of the body at the opening. I'm sure a hole could be made that I would be comfortable with, but it would take more than a few minutes work to do.

                  '87 Camaro - 2.8L MPFI, 700R4 swapped to T5, B&M Ripper Shifter, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, CATCO high flow cat, K&N air filters, 180 degree thermostat w/200-180 fan switch, 3.42 rear end, Global West steering brace, polyurethane bushings/trans mount, Spohn adjustable torque arm.
                  '88 Formula (stolen), '96 Camaro RS, (sold), '91 Firebird (sold),
                  Bruce, μολων λαβέ

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bru333
                    When did you cut the hole? I'd sure like to see photos of a hole that has 20/30000 (or more) miles on it...I've seen lots of photos of holes when people have cut them, but later after a year or two of driving.

                    **This is my personal opinion only. Im not an expert in car structures by any stretch of the imagination, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...**

                    I have severe reservations about cutting a hole in the body, above the rear axle, of a unibody car. The majority of the pictures I've seen of these holes, shows people have cut them with square corners (a round or oval hole is better). They also haven't reinforced the opening before sealing it back up. This, to me, is just asking for stress cracks from the flexing of the body at the opening. I'm sure a hole could be made that I would be comfortable with, but it would take more than a few minutes work to do.
                    A lot of cars come with those holes already there. I cut a square hole, then I laid a bead of permatex copper around it, laid a square cut of sheet metal over it, and screwed it down. I could snap some pics. Every car should have this for easy pump R&R.
                    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by raroZ28
                      A lot of cars come with those holes already there.
                      and those cars were designed for them.
                      Every car should have this for easy pump R&R.
                      I agree completely. It's not the hole itself I'm worried about, rather the way it's cut and reinforced/sealed.
                      I could snap some pics.
                      Please. How many miles since you cut the hole?

                      '87 Camaro - 2.8L MPFI, 700R4 swapped to T5, B&M Ripper Shifter, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, CATCO high flow cat, K&N air filters, 180 degree thermostat w/200-180 fan switch, 3.42 rear end, Global West steering brace, polyurethane bushings/trans mount, Spohn adjustable torque arm.
                      '88 Formula (stolen), '96 Camaro RS, (sold), '91 Firebird (sold),
                      Bruce, μολων λαβέ

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by bru333
                        How many miles since you cut the hole?
                        hmmm, about 20K maybe?
                        97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                        01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                        • #13
                          went and snapped a pic really quick. You can't really tell much, I wrapped the steel in this as a barrier between the cars sheet metal, and the sheet metal i screwed to it. I didn't want it to ever rattle.

                          You can't see much. BTW, yes, I used the stuff that you put to line your toolbox.

                          97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                          01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                          • #14
                            It is alive, and I'm spent.


                            Moron factory engineers should be shot.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Joe 1320
                              It is alive, and I'm spent.


                              Moron factory engineers should be shot.
                              That's what my husband says about the Opti and plugs #2 and 8 that *I* have to get because my hands are smaller
                              1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.

                              Currently on the clock: 120K

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