I've always been a Valvoline fan for standard oil, and Mobil 1 for synthetics (post 50k miles). I was just wondering what everyone uses here? Is there an oil that "performs" a bit better? I've heard some good things about Royal Purple, but it's tough to find in auto parts stores in my area. Is it worth looking for? Any gains from it? Thanks!
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Mobil 1. Use the best, forget the rest.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
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I don't know how Royal Purple performs in comparison to other oils because the first day she came home, I already was under there changing the oil.
I can say this though, my car does something consistently every time I start her up. When she first comes on, the oil pressure stays at constant 45ish, not pegging at all. After about maybe 5-8 minutes (depending on outside temps), the oil pressure drops to slightly under the first mark at idle. When this happens, I can legitimately say that my car pulls harder every time. I don't know if it has to do with royal purple or whatever. They do claim a possible 3% hp increase...but I'm usually pretty skeptical when it comes to claims like that. I did buy it because I heard really good things on it, and oil to me is an extremely important part....but like I said, it does pull harder when that pressure drops.
The downside....5 quarts of royal purple + k&n oil filter = about $50 per oil change.
I get royal purple at napa...they almost always have it in stock, and if they don't, they will order it for you at no extra cost.black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come
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Mobil 1
Christopher Teng
1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune
Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K
F-Body Dirty Dozen
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You might want to go to the CamaroZ28.com site, and do a "search" for posts by "Patman". He has spent a lot of time evaluating different oils in his engine, using oil analysis as a measure of engine wear.
He has some interesting data on several motor oils. Interestingly, he claims, and has viscosity data to support, that the Mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W-30 synthetics are actually on the low side of a true "30" viscosity, and makes the case for using a 10W-40 Mobil 1. He also has some data on (I believe??) a Castrol synthetic 0W-30, made in Germany that has produced the lowest wear results (as measured by post-change analysis) in his LT1. Not sure if you could extend the results to the LS1, but his posts do make interesting reading, since they are backed up with hard data.
One thread:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238136Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Great find, Fred! Definitely a good read. I used to use Castrol Syntec in my Lumina Z34. It seemed to muffle the chronic knocking from the Twin-Dual cam 3.4 disaster.
Another question I had... At start-up, I seem to get a bit of valve knock for a few seconds. Is this common with the LS1? I know some LT1 guys around my area say it's common. Thanks again!SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
17K Miles
2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth
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www.bobistheoilguy.com
Enough oil info and opinion to make your head spin!!
I'm running Castrol GT-1 Synthetic 5w-30 right now.Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
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I blend my own Mobil 1 and regular mobil oil.....7 quarts of mobil 1 would put me in the poor house. I just recently switched to this after using Valvoline durablend for years. The bearings were worn pretty good on my last stroker.....dont know if any of it could be contirbuted to the oil, but I figure I should switch.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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Originally posted by 95TransAmI don't know how Royal Purple performs in comparison to other oils because the first day she came home, I already was under there changing the oil.
I can say this though, my car does something consistently every time I start her up. When she first comes on, the oil pressure stays at constant 45ish, not pegging at all. After about maybe 5-8 minutes (depending on outside temps), the oil pressure drops to slightly under the first mark at idle. When this happens, I can legitimately say that my car pulls harder every time. I don't know if it has to do with royal purple or whatever. They do claim a possible 3% hp increase...but I'm usually pretty skeptical when it comes to claims like that. I did buy it because I heard really good things on it, and oil to me is an extremely important part....but like I said, it does pull harder when that pressure drops.
The downside....5 quarts of royal purple + k&n oil filter = about $50 per oil change.
I get royal purple at napa...they almost always have it in stock, and if they don't, they will order it for you at no extra cost.
I've run Royal Purple 10W-30 in the Z since I got her and the Jeep for over 2 yrs. now (along with a K&N oil filter). Just in the Jeep alone I noticed a biiiig difference in throttle response, power and gas mileage. Not quite as much of a difference in the Z (because I didn't bother to try anything else lol), but she does seem to run great on it. Definitely a good choice IMHOSteve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez
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Im going to have to try Royal Purple.... at least once. The T/A is running Valvoline right now. I did a change right after I brought her home. This brings me to another interesting point... Are the K&N oil filters worth it? I'm not so much worried about the cost as $50 bucks a change is only $100 a year on oil changes. I won't put 1,000 miles a year on this car, so I'm not overly concerned with cost.SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
17K Miles
2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth
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I was told that they have a great flow and filtration rate...but have seen no proof of this. However, they do have the needed anti-drainback valve seem to be at least a decent filter...not a bad choice I thinkSteve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez
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