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  • help, 2 codes, car died

    I was coming home from work today on the freeway and noticed my tach shooting up to 4000, 6000, then 7000 then back down to normal. It would backfire everytime it would do this. It still had enough power to get off the freeway, but as soon as I stopped, it died and the tach was stuck at 7k. I tried to restart it and it just kept turning over with lots of smoke out the tailpipes (it was raining hard as usual, don't know if that was the cause of the smoke?). Finally, 5 minutes later, it restarted. The SES light was on and I luckily made it home. It shows 2 codes: the dreaded 36 (High res signal) and 33 (MAP sensor signal voltage too high). I'm guessing the dreaded opti - which was replaced in 2/04 and only has 9k on it. Any other ideas?
    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

  • #2
    If it was raining real hard and the opti somehow got splashed or too wet it could have been effected. I don't really know about the MAP though...sounds like it could be the opti...lets hope not
    -Dan

    1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

    Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

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    • #3
      Ah crud, sorry, posted in wrong forum


      Just to add, I didn't hit any particularly large puddles. In fact, then it did die, the rain was almost dimished to a drizzle. It had been raining the past 27 of 33 days, so I don't know if water in the opti is the problem, occurring on the 27th rainy day. Also, when the tach went crazy, the "check gages" light came on...I'm suspecting because the tach exceeded 7k?

      And don't know if this is relevant...it was raining so hard during my lunch that I could hardly see the road. There was a huge rock of some sort that jolted the whole car up and slammed back down. Everything looked ok, but I don't know if it jolted some kind of connector out. I drove it back to work OK. I left work at the end of the day and the car died about 40 minutes after driving/20 miles.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

      Comment


      • #4
        Maybe its just a coincidence and both the Opti and MAP went out...?
        Steve
        79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
        87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
        93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
        http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

        Comment


        • #5
          You can get a MAP code when the computer is expecting to see a certain value from the MAP and does not (like if the engine unexpectedly dies from another cause). It's likely a secondary code and not the source of a problem. Looks to be opti related (either opti or the opti harness).
          Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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          • #6
            Maybe the harness came loose, you could have jostled something out of place, take a look around and make sure everything is connected first like you were saying, gotta start with the free things first anyway..
            -Dan

            1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

            Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree with Rob that the MAP code was likely secondary. Maybe try to clean the harness really well with some contact cleaner and plug it back in.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks guys, that's what I was afraid of

                I checked the connections...all nice, tight, unrusted.

                So my question...is it worth it to wait for the MSD opti? They claim it ships next Friday, but I've dealt with 3 month late shipments...and this is a new part, so I'm leary...and I need the car. Maybe I'll call them.
                94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
                  Thanks guys, that's what I was afraid of

                  I checked the connections...all nice, tight, unrusted.

                  So my question...is it worth it to wait for the MSD opti? They claim it ships next Friday, but I've dealt with 3 month late shipments...and this is a new part, so I'm leary...and I need the car. Maybe I'll call them.
                  Well, you could always go with the DynaSpark unit as well. Just as a thought
                  Steve
                  79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                  87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                  93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                  http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well, I got an order through Summit. Supposed to ship next friday...I hope it does.

                    I talked to 2 people...1 last night...who said there's no guarantees that it'll ship then. Then tried to push the stock GM opti. I said no way, mine lasted less than 9k. Then he said "well, I guess that's why they don't make the Camaro anymore. haha, I just had to say that." Needless to say, I didn't order from him.

                    Steve brought up to me that I should replace the timing chain as well. I think I'm considering it...so how much more is it to install a new timing chain? It's cheap enough, but I don't know how much more difficult it is. I'm also buying a new water pump to keep my MSD opti nice and dry.
                    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It's very easy to do Craig. You'll want to drop the oil pan and pull the timing(front) cover obviously. After you have the timing cover off, it is easier to get #6 cylinder at TDC now rather than later. Disconnect the coil wire then bump the starter until the camshaft dowel pin is facing the 3 o'clock position. Then unbolt the cam sprocket to remove the orginal chain. The camshaft will sometimes turn once you loosen the cam sprocket bolts. This is OK. You can turn the cam to line up the dots later.

                      To install the new chain. Place the chain onto the cam sprocket while holding it in your hand with the chain hanging and the dot on the bottom, then lower the chain underneath the crank sprocket and then pull the chain up snug against the the crank sprocket to engage them together.

                      Slide the cam sprocket over the camshaft dowel pin. Here is where you may have to "rock"the camshaft back and forth just a little to get the cam sprocket over the dowel pin. Once you get the cam sprocket over the dowel pin, install the opposite bolt into the cam sprocket. Now check the alignment of the dots. If they are off, you might have to slightly turn the camshaft or the crank to get them to line up.

                      Crank sprocket dot goes straight up(12 o'clock), and the cam sprocket dot goes straight down(6 o'clock) with the dowel pin at 3 o'clock.

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                      • #12
                        And you've got an extra set of hands to help out . I think I saw Napa stocking the stock timing pieces for a total of $100 before AAA discount. Just a thought
                        Steve
                        79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                        87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                        93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                        http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          O really? That's awesome...I can only find the chain itself for the '94...with the exception of the Comp Cams $600 one. When I remove the crank hub, would the puller fit within the space without removing the radiator?
                          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Whoops, sorry, $127 before discount. You can see it here.
                            Steve
                            79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                            87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                            93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                            http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
                              O really? That's awesome...I can only find the chain itself for the '94...with the exception of the Comp Cams $600 one. When I remove the crank hub, would the puller fit within the space without removing the radiator?
                              Most will fit. Some are pretty tight though. To me it's worth removing the radiator just to have more room and to be able to get an impact wrench in there.

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