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  • #16
    Originally posted by Wild Willy
    think of it as a reason to periodically check and add new fluids- and as rust-proofing for the back end of the car-

    Rustproofing Now that's classic!
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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    • #17
      Thanks guys for all the insight. So far the back cover looks dry so it must be around the shaft seal.

      Hoping to pressure wash the whole rear end on the weekend to see how bad the leak is.

      Any oil better than other?
      97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


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      • #18
        Not really...I use synthetic 75w-90, any brand is fine.

        If you have a standard limited slip, just make sure you use the limited slip additive. If you're using the Torsen, the additive is not necessary.
        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          If you have a standard limited slip, just make sure you use the limited slip additive. If you're using the Torsen, the additive is not necessary.
          How can you tell what you have?
          97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


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          • #20
            Stock differential was an Auburn. The Torsen may have been added by a previous owner. The only way to really tell is by looking under the cover. An Auburn looks like this:





            See the yellow springs? They apply pressure to the clutch plates in the diff. A Torsen differential does not have clutches. It uses a worm gear.


            Sorry, I don't have a picture of my Torsen on my computer, or I'd post it for you.
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #21
              Someone ask for a torsen diff. Bad picture but its an idea. Thats mine!

              Eddie
              2000 M6 Trans Am
              Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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              • #22
                I won't hurt the Torsen to use the additive, GM specified it to make them run more quietly- so, no damage to err on the side of caution and use it either way- other than the few dollars for a tube of it-
                2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
                "Black, the fastest color"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Wild Willy
                  I won't hurt the Torsen to use the additive, GM specified it to make them run more quietly- so, no damage to err on the side of caution and use it either way- other than the few dollars for a tube of it-
                  I think thats a waste of money. When I used to work at Chevy, If it was a Torsen Diff. We never added it.

                  No recommended= No need for it


                  I didnt add it to mine, I'd rather save that money and buy a better Diff. oil.

                  My $.02
                  Eddie
                  2000 M6 Trans Am
                  Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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                  • #24
                    My feelings exactly...when you have a slow leak, and need to top it off once in a while, adding the additive gets old and expensive and is not needed.


                    With that said, I think it's moot as it sounds like he has an Auburn.
                    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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                    • #25
                      I bought mine used bone stock . I doubt the guy before me did a swap.

                      You can tell I have not been hanging around parts stores too much, do they sell the limited slip additive there?
                      97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


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                      • #26
                        Yep...limited slip additive.
                        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Black97
                          I bought mine used bone stock . I doubt the guy before me did a swap.

                          You can tell I have not been hanging around parts stores too much, do they sell the limited slip additive there?
                          I recommend if you need it, go to the dealer and get it. I think last time I checked they have the premixed Gear oil for your diff. with the additive already in there.
                          Eddie
                          2000 M6 Trans Am
                          Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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                          • #28
                            Or you could get some red line brand synthetic, they offer it with the limited slip additive already in there and you wont have to pay dealership price for an unknown brand of oil. Unless someone knows what brand of oil GM is putting their name on?
                            1994 Z28 Camaro-Project carbed 4th gen
                            1995 Silverado-beater truck
                            2005 Colorado Z71-Daily driver

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                            • #29
                              I thought the LSD additive was a friction modifier for the clutch plates. Why would that be needed in the Torsen?
                              Fred

                              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Black97
                                I found in the Haynes manual that you can disconnect the drive shaft and then remove the companion flange and that way you wouldn't have to mess with the internals. Does that work ok if you have the right tools?
                                Well it seems the leak has gotten worse or I need to do another cleaning with the pressure washer.

                                Last Summer the dealership quoted me $163 for the replacement of the pinion seal. Looking at the price, my guess is they would be taking the easy but wrong route as I described. What do you guys think? How much would a proper repair cost?
                                97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


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