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  • Oil Pump?

    I was about to go do some laundry, so I went out to the car threw everything in and started it up. After getting past all the bumps in the parking lot, I noticed the engine wasn't running right. So I look down at the gauges, and sure enough...0 oil pressure.....I immediately killed it and checked the oil. Oil level was fine. Does this mean for sure that my oil pump is out? Also, could I have damaged anything in this process? It only ran for like 30 seconds, under 1,200 rpms the whole time. If it is the oil pump (pretty sure it is), should I just pick one up at the local AZ, or is there another that would be recommended? Thanks.

    P.S. This is my daily driver so I need help ASAP.
    '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

  • #2
    Could be the sending unit, gauge or indeed a bad oil pump. I would check the oil pressure with another mechanical gauge to eliminate the factory parts.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Joe 1320
      Could be the sending unit, gauge or indeed a bad oil pump. I would check the oil pressure with another mechanical gauge to eliminate the factory parts.
      I could definately tell a difference in the idle quality/sound. I've never really messed around with this before. Where can I get a guage, and how easy is it to take a reading (ie. where would I tie into the system)?
      '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

      Comment


      • #4
        Well, I'm getting it towed to a shop tomorrow so they can further diagnose the problem. Here is the parts list IF it is the pump...all these are found at AutoZone:

        Melling High Volume Pump - M-155HV
        Melling Pump Shaft w/ steel guide - IS-55E
        5 quarts Mobile 1 syn oil
        Mobile 1 oil filter - M1-202 (time for oil change anyway)
        Felpro rubber oil pan gasket - OS34500R

        Anything else I should add to this list (even if it isn't required, but would be good to chage while I'm there), or perhaps any of these items I should steer clear of? Thanks.
        '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Aaron4TAMU
          I could definately tell a difference in the idle quality/sound. I've never really messed around with this before. Where can I get a guage, and how easy is it to take a reading (ie. where would I tie into the system)?
          I dont know if this is the case on the f-body (someone can confirm or deny here), but many GM vehicles cut the fuel off when the oil pressure drops. This could be your idling issue.....maybe it was running out of fuel. THe question is - was it a true 0 oil pressure or was it the sender going bad? Did you hear any clacking or knocking?
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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          • #6
            Yes, it was more of a clacking sound, coming from the top of the engine.
            '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

            Comment


            • #7
              sounds like no oil pressure. No oil pressure = lots of top end noise/ticking.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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              • #8
                One more quick question...will there be any benefit by installing the high volume pump vs. the stock grade?
                '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

                Comment


                • #9
                  Higher volume oil pump can never be wrong, oil keeps it alive!!

                  Eric W.

                  89 Firebird Formula WS6
                  Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
                  6.2L/382.97 ci
                  Custom PROM Dyno tuned
                  WCT-5 speed
                  BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
                  Boss MS 18" Rims
                  Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
                  Custom Dual exhaust
                  1LE upgrade
                  Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
                  In a constant state of upgrade!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DeWynter
                    Higher volume oil pump can never be wrong, oil keeps it alive!!
                    I was told by someone that a HV pump can actually rob a horse or two, is this true?
                    '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I guess it could because of the higher amount of oil being pumped but do you really think in the real world you can tell the difference between 300HP and 298HP, I know I could not, and besides you can get cheap bolton upgrades to counteract the loss of 2 HP. I bet you could do some porting on the intake and gain it back in about 2 hours.

                      Eric W.

                      89 Firebird Formula WS6
                      Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
                      6.2L/382.97 ci
                      Custom PROM Dyno tuned
                      WCT-5 speed
                      BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
                      Boss MS 18" Rims
                      Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
                      Custom Dual exhaust
                      1LE upgrade
                      Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
                      In a constant state of upgrade!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ok, at the moment I don't have the equipment available to lift the car enough to get a good look....do you have to remove the y-pipe to drop the oil pan? If so, are there any other steps you have to go through before you can remove the y-pipe? Sorry for all the stupid questions.
                        '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I could not tell you how to take off the oil pan on a 4th gen with the motor in it. I know I would have to probably jack up the motor to get it off on my 3rd gen. maybe someone else can give you some first hand help here?

                          Eric W.

                          89 Firebird Formula WS6
                          Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
                          6.2L/382.97 ci
                          Custom PROM Dyno tuned
                          WCT-5 speed
                          BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
                          Boss MS 18" Rims
                          Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
                          Custom Dual exhaust
                          1LE upgrade
                          Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
                          In a constant state of upgrade!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yep, you are right....just went and bought another floor jack. Looks like I get to wait till tuesday when the local shop is available. That's one thing I hate about working out of town....you never have your tools when you need them Thanks for the help guys.
                            '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Aaron4TAMU
                              I was told by someone that a HV pump can actually rob a horse or two, is this true?
                              The normal pump is more than adequate for a street driven car. Pressure is more critical than volume in this case. Put a white, higher pressure GM spring in it. It is obvious to me that it would take more effort to turn a high volume pump. How much, I don't know.
                              Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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