Really stumped on this one...w/in pls

[KnightFire]

Well, I was driving down a road about 35mph and the car just DIED, zero warning. I pull over and try to re-start, it does nothing doesnt even engage the starter, almost as if somehow the VATS had been triggered or something, so I check every fuse and relay, their ALL good. Then I try to plug into the PCM...the OEM and DFI, neither are seeing the computer.

Had to get towed home and I just can't figure out what happened/whats wrong.

How can I by-pass and/or test to see if the VATS system somehow brought the entire car down. The last time I had this probem, it gave me plenty of warning and the "security" light would flash...this time I got no warning at all, the car simply died.

I have good 12V from the battery and all the accessories work fine, I jumped the 12V switched to the constant 12V on the starter and it turned right over...so its got to be something between the ignition key and the starter/PCM's...right?

ANY thoughts at all would be VERY helpful!!!

Thank You


KnightFire

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Could it be the ignition switch?
http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html

[KnightFire]

It could be! I notice that my fuel pump doesn't turn on either, I have 0 fuel psi. when I turn the key "on". However, my battery gauge still works perfectly, which according to that site...all the gauges should be dead, they all are except the battery gauge.

I'll try and start there and see what happens.

THANKS!



KnightFire

[N20LT4Bird]

I would check to see if you have power to the switch before you go change it out. If you dont, you may have a short or bad link. A wiring diagram and a meter could save you some time and money. Keep us posted.

[KnightFire]

True...but to even "test the switch" you have to remove the entire dash/steering wheel just to get to it. So either way its going to take the same amount of time...to either test it, or as to replace it.

Unless you know of a short cut?

The symptoms are an exact match, but your right, I intend on checking with a volt meter before I call GM for a replacement part.




KnightFire

[Joe 1320]

Dean, I just had to do this very same repair. In order to swap the switch, you have to drop the steering column.

Here's the thread where we went through it.


http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthre...gnition+switch

[KnightFire]

OK...I'm to the point of pulling the connectors out from the switch...BUT they WON'T come out! I don't want to put TOO much pressure on the wires and I've been trying to remove the black one first...of course its the most difficult to see/reach. I think I feel the tabs on the bottom of the black connector...but even if I push them in and try to pull the connector off...it won't budge.




KnightFire

[Joe 1320]

There are locking tabs that must be pushed and it is a PITA to seperate them. A small flat head screwdriver can be used to help pry them apart.

[KnightFire]

LOL...what I THOUGHT was a tab for the blue connector was actually the black connector...so I wasn't pressing the correct tabs and trying to pull the wrong connector when pushing the wrong tab...anyhow I do know this, if this isn't my problem I'm going to be P.O. ed...


Thanks for the help!





KnightFire

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by KnightFire
LOL...what I THOUGHT was a tab for the blue connector was actually the black connector...so I wasn't pressing the correct tabs and trying to pull the wrong connector when pushing the wrong tab...anyhow I do know this, if this isn't my problem I'm going to be P.O. ed...

Don't feel bad. I did the same thing. DOH!

[KnightFire]

Joe,
Is there a special trick to get the cable to come out of the switch housing? I've tugged on it pretty good...nada.

I've finally got the new one, just need to put it all back together! Once I get this cable off that is.


Thanks!!!


KnightFire

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I couldn't get mine off either. I ended up breaking it. All it does is keep it from going in park with the key on.

[Joe 1320]

I do remember that being a PITA. I ultimately got it to come loose. It was the reinstall where it gave me the biggest fit.

[KnightFire]

Hmmm

Its all wired up, new switch in place...nada, zip, zero.

So I'm looking in my FSM and it states to check connections and voltage at solenoids terminal.

If its less than 7volts it states to replace the ignition switch (already did that) if its more than 7 volts it states to repair wire from ignition switch.

Anyone know where this "wire" is? Is it on the solenoid?

KnightFire

[KnightFire]

So now I'm looking at the possibility of a bad fusible link...I know where they are (near the battery) but how do I tell which one? In the schematic its labeled as "Fusilbe Link E" of course there are no letter indicators on the wires themselves.

I'm suspect of one in particular, it has glue coming out of the ends...almost as if it was heated then cooled quickly, its also double in size of the other links, but then again it also has 2 wires linked as one, its the only one like that.

Anyone have any suggestions?



KnightFire