If you need to test for continuity, you can undo one end of the wire and pierce the jacket on the other side of the link with a safety pin then take a reading using the ohm scale, Also, with the end connected, you can check for voltage on both sides of the link and see where it is getting lost.
-
-
Scratch that the link is fine...
However after testing the fuses for the 3rd time I noticed that my "crank" fuse is good, but its not receiving any power 0.0V...which would point me back to the ignition switch that I just replaced (right?)...trying to think out loud here...I'm really stuck.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm about to have the darned thing towed to a dealer, anyone know of a good GM dealer in this area?
KnightFireComment
-
Do you have any manuals? If so, which ones? Do you have a wiring diagram? I have this stuff & I can help you ifn you don't have it.Comment
-
I've been using the 93 FSM, don't think it can get too much more specific than that. I just can't figure out how some of these wires are ran. What I'm trying to figure out is how to check the power levels from battery to the switch, then from the switch to the starter solenoid. I'm having a heck of a time doing it.
I THINK the solenoid is fine, I can put 12V to the switched terminal and it tries to turn over, but what I don't get is that when I turn the key to ON position, I don't get the SES or security lamps with the check gauges lamps, nor does my fuel pump kick in.
I KNOW that its not the PCM, I've already tried swapping it with a known good one (one of the 1st things I tried), nothing changed.
Now I see that I'm not getting any voltage through the "crank" fuse block (removed the fuse and probed with voltmeter 0.0V) With the key in the ON position.
I guess if I knew which wire on the ignition switch was supposed to be 12V, how it gets there, and where it goes from there would help.
KnightFireComment
-
I'll take a look & get back to you.Comment
-
SWEET! Thanks for the help!!!
I'm probably just frustrated at this point and can't think straight, you'll probably come up with something incredibly easy and over looked, LOL.
KnightFireComment
-
Cant remember which tranny yo have - I'm looking for neutral switch interlock in the manual to see if it could be the cause - I've heard of this killing a car.Comment
-
I've thought of that, however to my knowledge it was bypassed when my shifter was installed...I've actually started the car in gear before (accidently of course).
Found it in the manual, but it didn't have a wire diagram for it, or how to check it.
Its a 700R4 trannie.
KnightFireComment
-
It looks like when the ign sw is in the 'run' position, juice goes to the yellow wire & thru the trans range switch to the theft deterrent relay where it switches the purple wire that works the starter solenoid.
The pink wire powers the injector fuses, the ign & AC fuses.
The orange wire powers the ABS & Fan fuses, Brown goes to accessories & other stuff.
Looks like those wires should be hot when in the run position. Should be easy to check in the fusebox.Comment
-
Cool, I'll check those wires tomorrow when I'm more clear headed, how would I check them via the fuse panel? I had power to all the fuses there except the "crank" fuse, or do all those wires go to the fuse panel?
The yellow wire you spoke of, is that coming off the ign switch itself? I do remember seeing a FEW yellow wires under there, LOL.
Thanks again broh, I really appreciate your efforts!!!
KnightFireComment
-
It's pretty confusing, but in addition to what I already mentioned above for the run position, in the start position, the yellow wires also provide voltage to the trans range switch to the theft deterrent module which switches in the purple starter solenoid wire(in additon to the starter solenoid). The yellow wire also goes thru the crank fuse to the diagnostic energy reserve module (WTH that is???). Anyway, you at least need voltage in those places.Comment
-
Hmmm, I had power to everything you mentioned except the crank fuse (yellow wire from ign sw)...which puts me RIGHT BACK to the ign sw again (which I just replaced)...very weird.
Does the yellow wire to the crank fuse come directly from the ign sw or does it come through the trans range first?
P.S. is the trans range switch the same as the P/N switch?
Thanks!
KnightFireComment
-
Well, all those yellow wires look like they go together, and that includes the one that goes to the 3A crank fuse (#16). AFIK the trans range switch is the p/n switch I was talking about earlier, the manual shows an adjustment proceedure for that. It looks like the switch allows a connection to the theft deterrent relay when in park & neutral.
Good luck! I'm out of state tomorrow, so cannot help.Comment
-
Dean, Never assume that because a part is new that it couldn't be faulty. It may or may not be the culprit, but don't rule it out. Are you getting power to the gauge cluster?Originally posted by KnightFire
Hmmm, I had power to everything you mentioned except the crank fuse (yellow wire from ign sw)...which puts me RIGHT BACK to the ign sw again (which I just replaced)...very weird.
Comment
-
That occured to me as well...but I would think that I there is something I missed as having a higher probability of fixing than a replaced brand new part.Originally posted by Joe 1320
Dean, Never assume that because a part is new that it couldn't be faulty. It may or may not be the culprit, but don't rule it out. Are you getting power to the gauge cluster?
Yes I have power to my cluster, except for the afore mentioned SES/Security lights most of my guauges seem to be working.
I did find that I DO have power at the "crank" fuse when I actaully try to crank the car...I thought it would have power if the ign was in the ON position, I was wrong.
What do you think about the security module being bad?
Where is the Theft Deterrant Relay and theft deterrant module?
Comment
Comment