Can I take an 01 SS?

[raroZ28]

damn the lt1... I only got a 97 because it was my favorite year of any camaro, i didn't put so much thought into how much better the ls1 was, i didn't really know it was THAT much better. I have always loved the look of the 93-97. I DID almost buy a 98 because it was an SS with 6 spd and t tops, but it sold, and it didn't seem worth it to me to get the 98+ because the front end was so ugly compared to the earlier 4th gens. If I'da known this, I'd have suffered the chrysler lookin front end

[Jay 02 TA ws6]

damn the lt1... I only got a 97 because it was my favorite year of any camaro, i didn't put so much thought into how much better the ls1 was, i didn't really know it was THAT much better. I have always loved the look of the 93-97. I DID almost buy a 98 because it was an SS with 6 spd and t tops, but it sold, and it didn't seem worth it to me to get the 98+ because the front end was so ugly compared to the earlier 4th gens. If I'da known this, I'd have suffered the chrysler lookin front end

It isn't hard to put us in the rearview with nitrous. I don't know why you don't go that route.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Woah, woah, don't degrade your LT1 that much. Just ask Joe, he ran a 13.0@107.8 in an ALL BOLT-ON LT1. You can make the stock LT1 really quick, you just have to know exactly which mods to do and how to utilize them. Good luck.

[94 formula]

Its all probably gonna depend on how fast you race him too. Its probably going to take alot more than bolt ons if your gonna get over 100. I know I can hang right with my brothers 99 Z28 until about 70 or 80 then his walks all over mine. I'll be interested to see what happens when I'm done with mine and have LT's 3in exhaust and CAI but I still know he'll walk all over my up top. Nothing short of head work or nos will make you take him up top. Get him to race from a dead stop to 100 which is close to a 1\4 mile and get alot of boltons on your car. Make sure you take him out of the hole and a set of 4.10s will definetly help you it would be no different than running the quarter.

[lt1maro]

Im gonna tell you staight up broh, with the mods that i have, i would have no problem taking your friends SS especially because he cant drive, and with the 4.10 gear that i have, if i hook up good the car comes out of the hole really hard. the only problem ive seen with my 4.10 is getting traction out of the hole because it gives you monster torque. I remember running a 98 Z off a light and he pulled a car on me out of the hole because i got a crappy launch, but when i hooked up which was the high side of second gear, i started to pull on him and by third i was passing him, Keep in mind that this was a completely stock car. Nitrous is not the only way but you are gonna have to throw money at your car to beat him. And dont let these guys get you down on your LT because with the right stuff these cars will eat anything you throw at them.

[AmericanZ28]

Raro, an LS1 is simply more power from the factory. With the money you saved from getting an LT1 instead of an LS1, you can invest in engine mods, and walk stock and mildly modified LS1's. There is a reason why the LT1's are a little sluggish on the top end compared to the LS1's. The LT1's have a less agressive cam profile, and come equiped with stamped steel roller rockers compared to the LS1's cam and roller rockers. This, and a few other things are what contibute to the kind of power that LS1's put out. If you want to put yourself in the same powerband as an LS1, get an LT4 Hot Cam Kit, and a reprogramed PCM. This alone is worth 60 horsepower assuming you have the bolt-ons. A combination like Joes bolt-ons, and a cam and RR Kit, is an easy recipe for 12 second ET's, and an LS1 Spankin Car Again, an LS1 is nothing but more factory horsepower, and in no way is it worth sacrificing your taste in appearance

[AmericanZ28]

One more thing, Raro. Is there a reason why youre set on the Dynomax cat-back? A cat-back like Borla, or the Loudmouth, will yield more horsepower than the Dynomax. Plus, chances are that you will like the sound better than that of the Dynomax system. The loudmouth is a really popular choice, and is inexpensive. Furthermore, another one of the benefits of the LT1, is the sound! It's unbelievable how much better sounding the LT1's are over the LS1's.

[Z Ya Later]

Ok, don't get down on your LT1 so quick. As they're saying, the valvetrain and motor weight savings are what give the LS1 the edge. But, they're not invincible. Put a little more into your motor, maybe some new gears as mentioned before, a 1LE driveshaft and a good set of rubbers and you'll be surprising people before you know it. Or, you can do what I do and get a GN . Mind you, it would even need to be modded, but can easily hit 12s with only $1500. This motor has more low-end torque than the LS1 and, with some good RRs and an aggresive cam, will have a great top end. A cat-back and CAI is not enough to make that much of a difference. Think of them as a baseplate to start everything else off. Get yourself some mods, even go to www.pcmforless.com for custom programming and you'll have that girl slappin' LS1s like red-headed step-children lol . LT1s are not slouches, they just need some more "persuasion" lol

[lt1maro]

Think of them as a baseplate to start everything else off. Get yourself some mods, even go to www.pcmforless.com for custom programming and you'll have that girl slappin' LS1s like red-headed step-children lol . LT1s are not slouches, they just need some more "persuasion" lol

Amen brother

[lt1maro]

I luv my LT-1!!! But dont get me wrong i luv all f-bodies, im just partial to LT's because i have one.

[Jay 02 TA ws6]

Raro, an LS1 is simply more power from the factory. With the money you saved from getting an LT1 instead of an LS1, you can invest in engine mods, and walk stock and mildly modified LS1's. There is a reason why the LT1's are a little sluggish on the top end compared to the LS1's. The LT1's have a less agressive cam profile, and come equiped with stamped steel roller rockers compared to the LS1's cam and roller rockers. This, and a few other things are what contibute to the kind of power that LS1's put out. If you want to put yourself in the same powerband as an LS1, get an LT4 Hot Cam Kit, and a reprogramed PCM. This alone is worth 60 horsepower assuming you have the bolt-ons. A combination like Joes bolt-ons, and a cam and RR Kit, is an easy recipe for 12 second ET's, and an LS1 Spankin Car Again, an LS1 is nothing but more factory horsepower, and in no way is it worth sacrificing your taste in appearance

The biggest reason is the heads from my understanding, not the cam.

Joe did a great job with his car to get it where it is. That said, the biggest reason he hit a 13.0 is his driving ability and traction mods. Look at his trap -- 107 is right in the range of a stock LS1 6-speed (106-107). Not only that, but Joe will also tell you that his car had more juice to it than most LT1s -- he could tell his car was stronger than most. While Joe may have started with an LT1 that could have run 13.8s stock, raro probably isn't.

All that aside, raro is STILL looking at over $1000 (if he buys new parts) to get the bolt-ons to put himself into the mid-to-low 13s. And it is likely that the LS1s will still have the advantage on him in the higher mph.

[raroZ28]

One more thing, Raro. Is there a reason why youre set on the Dynomax cat-back? A cat-back like Borla, or the Loudmouth, will yield more horsepower than the Dynomax. Plus, chances are that you will like the sound better than that of the Dynomax system. The loudmouth is a really popular choice, and is inexpensive. Furthermore, another one of the benefits of the LT1, is the sound! It's unbelievable how much better sounding the LT1's are over the LS1's.

All right cool, I have a little more faith in the LT1 guys. Jay makes it sound like the LT1 is garbage lol.

American, I'm not going with the dynomax, I'm going with the magnaflow. IMO the borla is too expensive, and the sound is too loud for my tastes. The magnaflow is 325 shipped, stainless steel, and they have a nice grumble but isn't too loud. I believe it also has the best dyno #'s.

[raroZ28]

Also, I would def. say I have one of the faster camaro's that rolled off the line.

[tclelland]

All that aside, raro is STILL looking at over $1000 (if he buys new parts) to get the bolt-ons to put himself into the mid-to-low 13s. And it is likely that the LS1s will still have the advantage on him in the higher mph.

Jay over $1k estimate may even be a little low....if you are bent on having to beat this guy then go for it, but remember there will always be someone faster than you. It sounds to me like you got the car you always wanted so why not be happy about it? I was stuck on wanting a '98+ WS6 T/A, but I could afford my '97 LT1 and didn't have to wait to get one. In hindsight I am much happier that I got my car NOW instead of having to wait. Someday I will have a WS6 LS1 car.....
Go have fun with your car and forget about what other people think.

[Joe 1320]

Let me add a little to the thread. My low 13 flats at 107 are still with SZ50s and a stock converter. LT-1s with careful thought on suspension mods to go hand in hand with power mods can make a quick ride that can dispatch an LS1 if the owner isn't a shifting god. Don't get me wrong.... LS1s are great on the upper end. LT-1s can do that, but it takes better heads. The key is going to be getting that power to the ground. The factory rear suspension stinks at best. While fine for a V6, the factory parts have too much flex which contributes greatly to the tires unloading. There have been several instances where I went up against stockish LS-1s with average drivers. The advantages I gained were when they were spinning and I was hooking. Easily I would get a car length or two out of the hole while they spin. Then they spend the rest of the quarter trying to make up ground. A hot LS1 with a great driver can get right with me in the traps but with a higher trap speed. Average cars with average drivers don't quite reel me in.

Now if I add that vigilante converter and a set of drag radials, my bet would be the car should run a 12.7 @ the same 107 and change with better 60's making the most impact.

That to me is pretty healthy for a N/A stock internal production LT-1 with basic bolt ons. There will be always someone faster or quicker, but high 12s is a nice balanced ride for a streeter.

The other part is that LT-1s can be purchased for much less than an LS1 in equal shape. Add that savings of many thousands to your mod fund and if you are doing the labor yourself, you can build an LT-1 in the 11s for less dough than a stock LS1 in the 13s. The last one I did was a 95 Z28. We added AFR heads, CC305 cam and springs, hooker long tubes and a dyno tune. Total investment in the car $9800 including purchase price of the car. The labor was done by me (free for a close friend) and the result was 12.30's at 116. Yup, it needed suspension work. that wasn't done yet. Just an example if you can do the work yourself. It is not meant to infer which is better. As a matter of fact if you put the same type of mods to the LS-1, the increases in power will be equally satisfying, just a higher total investment thats all.